TT 583 
.C7 
Copy 1 




The 

Copeland 

METHOD 




INDEX. 

PAGE 

Equipment 3 

Tools Required and their Use 3 

Formula for Cleaning Fluid 6 

Formula, how to make 7 

Formula for Moth Preventative . 7 

How to Use Cleaning Fluids 7 

How to Prepare Garments to be Cleaned 7 

How to Clean Garments 8 

To Remove Stains, etc 13 

Repairing 14 

Alterations 21 

Darning a Three-Coraered Tear 20 

Pressing 28 

How to Clean Cutaway, Prince Albert, Military and 

other Uniforms 33 

How to Clean and Press Ladies' Jackets, etc 33 

Selection of Materials, etc. 37 

Care of Clothes 38 

Folding of Clothes 42 

Testing Goods 43 

Price List for Cleaning and Pressing 44 

How to Dress and What to Wear 45 

Business Etiquette 55 






opeland METHOD 



A Complete Manual iot 
Cleaningf^ Repaifingf, Alter- 
ingf and Pressingf all kinds 
of Garments for Men and 
Women, at home or for 
business. 



Copyrighted 1908, 





BY 


V A N N ESS 


COPELAND, 


BUFFALO. N. Y. 



1 wo CoDiss KeceiviJi. i ^•' C ^ 

iVlAY 28 1^08 'S^ CA 

Lvss A ' )wc. «J INTRODUCTORY. 

,L-Ji5l:'l-,5:»»^J High birth and good breeding are the privileges of the 
few; but the habits of a gentleman may be acquired by any 
man. Neatness is not an art requiring the study of 
a life time ; on the contrary it's principals are simple, and 
their practical application involves only ordinary care. 

To gain the good opinion of those who surround us 
is the first interest and the second duty of men in every 
profession of life. First impressions are apt to be per- 
manent ; it is therefore of importance J;hat they should be 
favorable. Frequently the dress of an individual is that 
circumstance from which you first form your opinion. It 
is even more prominent than manner. It is indeed one of 
the first things noticed in a casual encounter or during the 
first interview. Chesterfield has said that " He could not 
help conceiving some idea of the people's sense and char- 
acter from the appearance of their dress whiich they ap- 
peared when first introduced to him." 

In the preparation of this book, it has been the aim of 
the maker to give in a concise form, all that is properly 
embraced in a comprehensive work on not only keeping 
our wardrobes in such a state as to cause us to appear to 
the best advantage, but also to give a complete instruc- 
tion in the manipulation of garrnents and tools used in the 
process of properly cleaning, '; pressing and repairing all 
kinds of garments for men and women. 

A few hints may be helpful to the beginner as well as 
to those in the business. 

Observe a well dressed man or woman on the street 
or elsewhere, note the make up and fitting points of their 
garments, this will help the student to know good work, 
and try to do as well when doing the work himself. 

When learning the method of cleaning, repairing and 
pressing all kinds of garments for men and women, it is a 
good idea, if possible, to have a garment of the same sort 
as one is studying close at hand, following closely the in- 
structions over all parts of the garment; thereby under- 
standing the teachings better and be'come more familiar 
with the work. 

Should a garment need repairing of any kind or a 
button sewed on, do it and charge accordingly. 

Never give a customer clothes that are damp from 
pressing, allow them to dry before wearing or delivering. 



r- ^^^5 



LESSON I. 

EQUIPMENT. 

Introduction : A few hints to the beginner as well as 
to those now in the business. The tools required and the 
best method of using same, for work at home or for busi- 
ness. 

TOOLS REQUIRED AND THEIR USE: 
The tools required for cleaning, repairing and pressing 
at home or for business are as follows : 

For work at home, use an ordinary kitchen table with 
smooth top. For use in business, a table eight feet long, 
three feet wide and thirty inches high (or as high as is con- 
venient for the presser, this may be easily determined by 
using). This is called a tailor's bench. The balance of 
the tools are the same for work at home or for business. 

The kitchen table or tailor's bench may be used for 
several purposes; the first of which is to place the iron, 
press-jack, sponge cloth, and garment while cleaning and 
pressing. Also for men to sit on while sevv^ing. 

THE IRON. 

One may use an ordinary laundry iron (but would 
advise the purchase of a solid iron or tailor' goose, 
weighing from fourteen to twenty-two pounds, or 
according to one's strength), one may heat the 
iron on a coal range, gas or oil stove; or one 
may use a gas or electric iron, which are being 
used with great satisfaction, and are easily handled, being 
of little trouble to operate, also doing the work well. 
However, it is best to use whatever one considers most 
convenient, cheapest and best for the locality in which 
one resides. 

The iron is heated and placed on the iron rest, which 
has been placed on the table for that purpose, to the right 
of the presser, and is applied to the sponge cloth (that has 
been wrung out almost dry), causing steam to penetrate 
that part of the garment being pressed, thereby refreshing 
the cloth. 

The presser should have (Control of the iron at all 
times, also see that the iron is not too hot before using 
by testing it on a piece of light colored woolen material. 
If it scorches it is too hot for use, wait for a few minutes 
to cool. 



When pressing move the iron from place to place, on 
the part to be pressed, by lifting it clear each time, instead 
of shoving it along as some do. (To shove the iron along on 
the work is apt to stretch garments where not required, 
and also cause wrinkles). Keep the face of iron smooth by 
rubbing wax over the surface frequently, thereby removing 
anv lint or dirt that may accumulate from time to time. 

THE PRESS-JACK. 

A press-jack such as the tailors' use, is made of two 
hardwood boards, thirty-five inches long, one inch thick, 
planed both sides and edges and cut egg-shape; the wide 
end being eight inches in width, and the narrow or small 
end, four inches wide, one forming the top and the other 
the bottom. 

Between the top and bottom are screwed two blocks 
of solid wood, four by four inches, and six inches high. 
The first one is screwed to the top and bottom, three inches 
from the large end, and the second block is screwed to the 
top and bottom, seven inches from the large end, thereby 
leaving a space to the small end, of twenty-eight inches, for 
convenience in handling the garments while pressing. 

The top of the press-jajck is left perfectly plain and 
smooth; the bottom, however, is padded for convenience 
for pressing with ten-ply of wadding, cut the same shape 
of board or bottom of press-jack. Over this place a piece 
of white heav)^ drilling, drawn tight over the wadding to 
keep in place and tacked all around the edges with brass 
head tacks. Cut cotton off evenly around the edges be- 
yond the tacks. This completes the press-jack and is 
ready for use. 

The press-jack as tailors term it, is used for the press- 
ing of clothes, and is also useful to lay clothes on while 
cleaning. 

THE BRUSH. 

A brush with a plain back and handle. (Never use a 
whisk broom to brush clothes as it injures the fibre of the 
cloth.) 

The brush is used to brush garments thoroughly be- 
fore cleaning and is used in connection with the pressing of 
garrnents, to slap with the back the part pressed, thereby 
keeping the steam in, and making the cloth sweat. The 
face to brush the nap of cloth, thereby refreshing the gar- 
ment, making it look like new. 



THE SPONGE CLOTH. 

A sponge cloth is made of heavy unbleached cotton, 
one yard and a half long, boiled in soap and water for one 
hour, then rinse in clean water, thus removing the lint. 

The sponge cloth should be dipped in warm water, 
and wrung out almost dry by hand, (or one may use a 
clothes wringer if preferred) thereby keeping it clean and 
free from grease and dirt that may stick to it from time 
to time. 

The sponge cloth is used to lay over the "woolen press 
cloth" that has been placed over that part of the garment 
to be pressed, also it is the cloth whijch is to be dampened 
and when iron is applied causes steam to be forced into the 
garment thereby instilling new life into the cloth as it 
were. 

THE UNDER WOOLEN PRESS CLOTH. 

Is made of a piece of plain light colored unfinished or 
finished worsted one yard long and eighteen inches wide. 

Place this under woolen press cloth over that part of 
garment to be pressed, then lay the sponge cloth on top 
of this, and apply the iron. 

By using these two press cloths together, prevents 
glossing the garment to a great extent, and may be used 
when pressing all kinds of garments for men and women. 

COAT AND TROUSER HANGERS, ETC. 

Coat and trouser hangers are used to place the sev- 
eral garments on to retain their shape after cleaning and 
pressing. They are also very essential in the home to 
place garments on that are not in use or being worn, it 
is better to place garments on forms than to hang up by 
loops that are placed on garments by tailors. 

Other necessities used in the cleaning, repairing and 
pressing of garments, are the sponge, tape measure, scis- 
sors, tailor's chalk, needles, thimble, bodkin for pulling 
bastings, a sewing maching, a large mirror, fashion plates, 
chairs, desk and safe, if one wishes. 

Afterward one may add as many tools as necessity 
requires and their business permits. 



LESSON II. 



CLEANING. 



Consists of several formulas for making Standard 
cleaning fluids, and the best method of using same, in the 
cleaning of all kinds of garments. How to pre- 
pare garments to be cleaned. How to steam clean. 
How to dry clean. The secret of suiccess in cleaning. To 
clean velvet and velveteen. To remove paint, tar, grease 
and ink from garments. How to v/ash woolens. How to 
wash black woolen dresses. How to clean silk, satin and 
lace. To remove grease from delicate fabrics. To re- 
move stains from linen and cotton goods. A formula for 
making moth preventative. 

CLEANING FLUID. 

(Formula.) 

2 ounces Chloroform. 

3 ounces Wood Alcohol. 
2 ounces Sulphur Ether. 

2 ounces Spirit of Wine. 
lo ounces Ammonia. 

3 ounces Oil of Turpentine. 

2 ounces Glyjcerine. 

Place all seven chemicals in one bottle. 

3 ounces Borax. 

3 ounces French Castile Soap. 

DIRECTIONS TO MIX: 

Cut the French Castile Soap in fine shavings, dissolve 
them together with the Borax, in four quarts of boiling 
water, cool this solution, being careful that all the soap 
is dissolved, then strain through muslin or thin woolen 
cloth, to remove any sediment. Then add the other seven 
chemicals, mix and shake well. This will make five 
quarts Cleaning Fluid. 

This cleaning fluid may be used on any 
garment with good results, as it will not injure the fibre 
of the cloth. Always rinse spot good with clean water and 
sponge, after using cleaning fluids. 



HOW TO PREPARE A SIMPLE CLEANING FLUID. 
(Formula.) 

4 ounces Ammonia. 
4 ounces Ba}^ Rum. 
1-6 ounce Salt Peter. 

To this add one pint of clean water, pour in a small 
neck bottle, keep well corked to avoid evaporating. 

This preparation will remove fresh or hard paint, tar, 
gTease, oil and in fact any spots from clothing, dress goods, 
carpets, rugs, and all woolen goods Vv'ithout injury to the 
fabric. The above may be obtained at any drug store. 

HOW TO PREPARE MOTH PREVENTATIVE. 
(Formula.) 

4 ounces Powder Borax. 

4 ounces Powder Alum. 

4 ounces Powder Camphor. 

Mix all three chemicals together thoroughly. This 
will make a white powder. Sprikle freely around and under 
carpets before laying, also over clothing not in use. 
This powder will not leave a stain, and is easily brushed 
off. Use freely wherever moths appear. 

HOW TO USE THE CLEANING FLUIDS. 

Dampen a sponge or woolen icloth (white flannel is 
the best as there is no color to come out) by dipping it in the 
cleaning fluid, which has been poured into a basin for that 
purpose and convenience. Rub the spot to be cleaned 
with the dampened sponge, woolen cloth or flannel) 
with the thread or nap of the cloth until the grease and 
dirt is loosened, then rinse with clean water, (always rinse 
sponge, cloth or flannel in clean water before cleaning the 
stain a second time with pure water) until stain entirely 
disappears. 

Always clean garments before repairing or relining. 

HOW TO PREPARE GARMENTS TO BE CLEANED. 

Turn all pockets inside out. Brush thoroughly and 
whip with cane if necessary, being careful not to break 
the buttons on the garment. 

See that the dust and dirt is thoroughly removed from 
the pockets, then return pockets to their place. This is a 
very important part and one which is very often neglected 



and overlooked. The garment is then ready to be cleaned. 
Proceed as above explained. If one application is not 
sufficient to remove the spots, repeat until spots are thor- 
oughly removed. 

Coats are usually very dirty and greasy around the 
collar also dov^n the fronts, great care should be taken to 
clean thoroughly and rinse often, thereby removing all 
stains. 

All coats, vests, trousers, overcoats, ladies' jackets, 
coats, waists, and all kinds of skirts should be Cleaned by 
this same method. 

HOW TO STEAM CLEAN. 
To steam clean coats, vests, trousers, overcoats, ladies, 
jackets and skirts and all wool garments : 

Place each garment in a basin of warm water first, and 
with soap and a brush go over the entire garment thor- 
oughly, including sleeve lining. 

Second — pour water off and fill basin again with 
warmer water than at first, and wash with stiff brush and 
soap as before, using three waters or until garment is 
thoroughly cleaned. 

Remove soap water (do not wring garments but allow 
to drip, or squeeze water out) and rinse in hot water, then 
warm, then cooler, and so on until cold, adding one table- 
spoonful of coarse salt. (Dissolve salt in cold water before 
placing in basin). This will prevent garment from 
shrinking. Place on hanger to retain their shape, allow- 
ing water to drip out. Straighten out wrinkles as much 
as possible when drying, thus making the pressing easier, 
and when thoroughly dry, projceed to press as explained. 
If any spots remain after this process, remove with am- 
monia. 

For those who perspire under the arms freely, dress 
shields placed in the bottom of the arm holes of coats will 
be of great benefit. 

HOV/ TO DRY CLEAN. 

Use a basin large enough to hold one gallon of gaso- 
lene and the garment to be cleaned. (Being careful to keep 
gasolene away from the stove or a lighted candle, lamp, 
or gas.) 

Place one gallon of gasolene in the basin with the 



coat, and swash up and down until all grease and dirt has 
been loosened, then place on hangers in the open air, al- 
lowing to dry and gasolene to evaporate. 

Before dipping the coat in the basin, see that all dust 
and dirt is removed from the pockets by, turning them in- 
side out and brushing, also brush all seams. 

Use half a gallon for the vest, and one gallon for the 
trousers. The more gasolene used, the better will be the 
results. 

Gasolene may be used a second time on black goods, 
after filtering or settling, but never on light colored mater- 
ials, ladies' jackets, jcoats, wool waists, and skirts may be 
cleaned in the same w^ay. 

Gasolene, benzine, naptha, turpentine and ammonia 
should be of the best and purest, when used for cleaning 
purposes. 

The secret of success in cleaning, is by dipping the 
garment in a large quantity of the liquid. Not less than 
a gallon of gasolene, benzine or naptha should be used for 
a coat, jacket or skirt. Two gallons will do the work bet- 
ter. One should remove all spots if possible before dip- 
ping in the liquid. It is a good idea to surround each spot 
with a basting thread as when wet, some spots do not 
show. Soak each garment in the clear liquid, then soap 
all spots thoroughly, rub gently between the hands until 
spots disappear. Then wash and rinse garment in clear 
liquid. Place on hangers in the open air, or drying room, 
allowing odor to pass away. 

Soap may be used for cleaning in connection with 
gasolene with good results. One may use a little ammonia 
with the gasolene and soap. The goods should be well 
shaken, and pull all folds out straight wnth the threads of 
the goods. Velveteen, velvet and corduroy may be 
cleaned with gasolene, when pile or nap is not much worn. 

When cleaning velvet, or any other fabric, the most 
important part is to have all the dust and dirt removed, 
by brushing the garment or fabric thoroughly. 

To clean a velvet collar that is not too greasy, and the 
nap not worn off : Wet a piece of woolen cloth or flannel 
in gasolene and rub lightly, until the grease and dirt is 
loosened. Then apply more gasolene with a clean woolen 
cloth, and remove all grease and dirt. Place on hanger 



in the open air to dry and to evaporate before steaming. 
When much gasolene is used hang coat so that the collar 
hangs down, to allow the gasolene to drip out and evapo- 
rate, before steaming. Always being careful not to use 
gasolene near a stove, lighted jcandle, lamp or gas. 

When using gasolene for cleaning purposes, have it 
in a gasolene or benzine safety can, used for that purpose, 
which may, be had at any hardware store. 

To remove old hard paint or tar, apply the cleaning 
fiuid freely and place the sponge cloth over spot and press 
with the iron, as there is nothing that v>'ill loosen paint or 
tar as well as steam or heat. If one application is not 
sul^cient repeat until loosened, then scrape off; after that 
use more cleaning fluid to rem.ove any stains that may re- 
main, then rinse in clean water. ,, 

To remove ink stains from woolen materials : 

Applv cleaning fluid, two or three times, washing 

spots each time v.nth clean water, and sponge until stain 

disappears. 

HOW TO WASH WOOLENS. 
Place four ounces of soap bark in a gallon of water in 
a kettle on a stove to boil, then add two more gallons of 
water. Throw this over the goods, that has been placed 
in another basin for that purpose and rub with the hands. 
Rinse in warm vv^ater, and hang up to dry. Iron on the 
wrong side when damp, until dry, (this will remove all 
v/rinkles and make goods look like new). This is especi- 
ally good for worn garments, that are to be cut and made 
over. 

Woolens should be squeezed, and not wrung, and the 
wrinkles straightened out while drying. 

HOW TO WASH BLACK WOOLEN DRESSES. 
Have the dress ripped apart, brushed, and all dust and 
dirt removed from the seams, also all the old stitches. 
Pour four gallons of water in a pail or basin, adding four 
ounces of ammonia. Dip each piece of the garment into 
the liquid, and swash up and down, and squeeze as dry as 
possible, then hang over a pole, and when almost dry, 
iron from the wrong side until dry, with an iron not 
too hot. 

Woolen dresses, that are much soiled, may be washed 
in soap and water, and rinsed out before dipping in the 



ammonia water, which will improve the color to a great 
extent. 

Any material, such as worsted, and wool garments 
should be sponged with ammonia and water. 

When cleaning with gasolene, benzine or naptha, to 
remove the odor, the article should be placed as near a 
steam radiator as possible, or in a drying room 
heated by steam or otherwise, this removes the 
odor, the steam heat dries out whatever of the 
fluid may have remained in the material, and 
does so without the danger of explosion which makes it 
impossible to dry a garment cleaned with the above near 
a lighted stove, lamp, candle or gas. 

HOW TO WASH CHAMOIS VESTS. 

Wash with white soap and warm water, making a 
good lather and rubbing well between the hands. Lay 
flat on a table, and rub with a dry, clean cloth ; rinse ; then 
roll in another Icloth and wring as dry as possible. Unroll 
and stretch w^ell ; hang up, and when nearly dry press with 
a warm iron, being careful not to have the iron too hot 
or it will spoil the chamois. 

HOW TO CLEAN SILK. 

Use hot gasolene, heated in a double boiler (never put 
gasolene on a stove) place the gasolene in the double 
boiler, after it has been rem.oved from the stove and while 
the water is still boiling, place the silk to be cleaned in 
the boiler, and swash up and down until it is thoroughly 
cleaned, then remove and place in the open air to dry 
and evaporate. 

TO CLEAN BLACK SILK. 

Brush and wipe with flannel cloth, lay on a table with 
the side to be worn up; then sponge with hot cofifee (strain 
coffee through mAislin before using). When damp, lay 
cloth on and iron until thoroughly dry. 

TO REMOVE GREASE FROM SILK. 

Use a lump of magnesia (moistened), rub on the spot 
and allow to dry; then brush powder off. Repeat if neces- 
sary. 

II 



Silks and satins should be sponged with ammonia and 
water. It is not necessary to soak ribbon, unless they are 
very dirty. Only black material should be cleaned with 
strong ammonia as a difference in the dye stuffs may cause 
the material to turn red, wherever the ammonia touches it. 
To |clean a colored silk dress, mix together four ounces 
of soap, six ounces of honey, and a pint and a quarter of 
gin, rub in well with small brush, rinse each piece at once 
in coldwater thoroughly, drain and iron while wet. This 
is especially good for black, also black and white silks. 

Silks may be stiffened by adding two or three lumps 
of sugar, or half a teaspoonful of gum Arabic to the water. 
Place over a round pole and while damp place a piece of 
muslin over the silk and iron until dry. 

TO CLEAN BLACK LACE. 

To a cup of strong tea, add one-half teaspoonful of 
gum Arabic. Dip the lace into the liquid, and squeeze it 
dry, two or three time (do not wring). Roll in a cloth and 
when almost dry, straighten out all the scallops carefully 
by hand, being careful to have it of universal width, and 
place on a soft cloth or padded board and lay a piece of 
muslin over it, then iron until dry. This is suitable for 
ordinary lace. But real lace should be pinned or tacked 
to a board, being careful to draw out all loops of the edge, 
and not drag the lace out of shape. 

All stains and spots should be removed as soon as 
possible. Ink stains may be taken out of clothing by 
dipping the spot in milk, and squeezing the blackened 
milk into a basin, dipping in clear milk again. Repeat 
this process until the ink stain has entirely disappeared; 
then wash the cloth in warm water, to remove the fat in 
the milk. 

Some inks are very difficult to remove but with a 
little patience, one of the processes will remove any ink 
stain. 

To remove grease spots from delicate fabrics, requires 
great care. When the color and fabric will not be injured, 
use the cleaning fluid. Otherwise use French chalk or 
magnesia powder. Place upon the spots, allow to 
remain for a short time. This will often absorb the grease 
If one application is not sufficient, brush off and apply 
again until the spot disappears. 



When water may be used on the cloth, the chalk may 
be made into a paste and spread on the spot and left until 
dry then brush off. 

When color of a piece of goods has been accidently 
or otherwise destroyed by acid. Apply ammonia to neu- 
teralize the same after which an application of choloform 
will in almost every case restore the spot to its original 
color. 

TO REMOVE STAINS FROM COTTON AND LINEN GOODS. 

To remove stains from linen and cotton, wet spots 
with luke warm water, then squeeze the juice of a lemon 
over the stain, sprinkle with salt, then place in the sun 
to hasten bleaching. If one application is not sufficient 
to remove the stains, repeat until thoroughly cleaned. 

To remove scorjch from cotton, place in the hot sun 
until scorch disappears. 

To remove machine oil from white linen, cotton, 
or light goods. Rub with pure white lard, then wash 
with warm water and soap. 

To remove iron rust. — Dip in medium strong solution 
of oxalic acid, then hold over the spout of a boiling tea 
kettle. Rinse the spot in two or three waters, then wash 
in the usual way. 

To remove Fruit and Berry Stains. — Place spot over 
a bowl and pour boiling water through the cloth until 
stain disappears. 

To remove Mildew. — Rub soap on the damaged article 
then salt and starch on that; rub well in and place 
in the sun until spots entirely disappear. 

Fruit, ink, blood and other stains should be re- 
moved before the clothes are wet in the laundry. Tea, 
coffee, wine and most fruit stains, can be taken out with 
clear boiling water, by stretjching the stained portions 
over a bowl and pouring hot water through. If they do 
not come out, use a solution of borax, ammonia and chlor- 
ide of lime, or burn some sulphur and hold the stains over 
the fumes. Fresh ink stains may be removed by an appli- 
cation of dampened salt, allow to remain for several hours, 
or soak in warm milk or vinegar and water. Lemon juice 
and salt placed on the spots will often suffice. 

Grass stains are most difficult to remove. Dip the 

13 



spots in molasses ; let it remain until thoroughly saturated, 
then wash out in clean water. Repeat if necessary 

Mud Stains — May be removed by soaking spots in 
a soloiition of oxalic acid. Rinse in several waters; then 
in ammonia and water last. 

Cocoa stains may be removed by sprinkling borax 
over the spot. Then soak in cold water, and pour on boiling 
water. 

Obstinate blood stains — Should^ be saturated in 
kerosene, then rubbed with soap and washed in hike warm 
water. 

To prevent muslin from fading — Use a weak solution 
of sugar of lead. 

LESSON III. 

REPAIRING. 

In this lesson is explained how to repair and reline 
coats, vests, trousers, overcoats. Tuxedos, Dress Coats, 
Vests, Prince Alberts, also Ladies' Jackets and Coats. 
How to put new Silk facings on coats. How to repair 
sleeves that are v/orn out around the bottom. How to 
put velvet collars on coats. The use of basting thread. 
How to prevent trousers bagging at the knee. How to 
prepare button holes for working. How to make button 
holes. Darning a three-cornered tear. Hems and felling 
same. Back stitjching. 

INSTRUCTIONS IN REPAIRING. 

To reline all kinds of coats and jackets for men and 
women. When new lining is required in coats, rip out 
the old lining, starting to rip the sleeve lining, first around 
top or sleeve head, then at the bottom or cuff. Now 
remove the whole lining and rip apart and iron out smooth 
and use as a pattern for the new, cutting new lining out 
exactly same size as the pattern, down the seams, but 
for convenience in working, allow two seams longer 
at the bottom and two seams longer at the top. 
Place one top and one bottom sleeve lining together, 
Baste seams, having the two right sides of lining together, 
and seam on machine, (or one may sew the seams on the 
machine without basting, this may be done with a little 
practice), press seams open on small end of press-jack, 
baste top of sleeve lining in; all around, one-quarter 
of an inch, now turn right sleeve inside out and 

14 



baste right sleeve lining in by fastening the back 
seam of the sleeve lining to that of the back sleeve 
seani of coat, baste with long loose stitches, start basting 
two inches below top of sleeve, to two inches within the bot- 
tom, being careful not to get lining in too short (take one 
quarter inch seam when sewing on machine), as this will 
cause sleeve to draw up, and hang in wrinkles, 
now fasten the front arm seams same as back, so 
that each seam will come directly on top of the sleeve 
seam. Turn sleeve right side out, and mark with chalk 
on lining of coat at each sleeve seam and baste sleeve 
seams at top of sleeve lining to correspond with the sleeve 
seams of garment, and baste lining all around until one be- 
comes familiar with the work. 

Now see that the lining is sufficiently long; cut lining 
off even with the bottom of the cuff, and baste sleeve 
lining up two inches from the bottom. Then with needle 
and silk fell around both sleeves, top and bottom. Turn 
sleeve right side out and remove basting stitches. 

Rip out the body lining, starting at the right facing, 
and rip down and around the pocket to one inch above 
and one inch below the pocket across bottom, up side 
seam, and across shoulder. Then remove lining, and iron 
out smooth, to use as a pattern, for new lining as before, 
leaving the left side of the lining in as a guide to the 
beginner as to how the lining should be placed. Then cut 
the new lining for the right side one half inch larger all 
around than the pattern for allowance in shrinking, and 
also for convenience while working. Then baste lining 
in right side, being careful not to put lining in too tight. 
Rather have it too long, but not so long that it hangs 
below the bottom of garment. Coats v/ill not hang well 
with tight or short lining. Turn edge of lining in down 
front, and ajcross bottom with basting, and fasten lining 
to side seam of forepart with long loose basting stitches. 
Then rip lining out of left side and iron out smoothly for 
a pattern, cut and baste in new lining on left side the same 
as explained for the right. Now cut the back lining double 
and seam down back centre seam, basting one inch plait 
for ease, then press to one side, and baste in back, and 
turn all edges in, down side seams, across bottom and 
shoulders, and back of neck. Now fasten lining all around 
arm hole to the seam, thereby holding lining in place, so 

IS 



as not to allow it to come loose. Cut lining off even with 
seam all around arm hole, then baste sleeve lining around. 

Cut lining to back of pocket, and at back end, cut 
lining in a trifle to allow working, and for turning in 
around the pocket, and fell lining in all around the pocket 
mouth, and proceed to fell the lining, doing 
the same with the left side. Now finish felling the entire 
coat. Remove basting stitches, and finish garment in the 
usual way. 

Ladies' jackets and coats are relined in the same way, 
also all kinds of mens' coats and overcoats included. 

When new silk facings are required for coats, remove 
the old facing, and use it as a pattern for the new, and 
when cutting the new facing, allow three quarters of an 
inch all around for convenience, while working. Baste 
new silk fajcing on very neat, and take time to do good 
work. When basting is completed, fell all around with 
fine silk, being careful not to draw the stitches tight, nor 
to contract the edge. 

Try to have the new silk facing put on so that it will 
look better than the old one did when new. This will 
bring you customers. The price to charge for such work 
is by the hour and for material used. 

TO RELINE VESTS. 
Rip old lining and back out of right side, and iron out 
smooth for a pattern. 

Now cut forepart lining one half inch larger all around 
and baste in forepart lining, observing how the left is put 
in. Baste edges of lining in, down facing, across bottom 
and around arm hole, (when one becomes familiar the right 
sides of lining may be placed to that of the foreparts and 
sewed around the armholes by machine, thereby saving the 
felling by hand). 

Now rip left inside lining out and replaice it with new 
lining, same as the right. Fell all around, then iron the 
back lining out smooth for a pattern, cutting it exactly 
the same size as the old one, and mark with chalk, where 
seam was sewn before. Cut inside lining the same size, 
and seam back seams on the machine, and press open 
(or one may stitch to one side), place right sides together 
to sew; smooth with iron, and baste the right fore- 
part, side seam to that of the back lining, also to the 
shoulder. Baste left side the same way. Now baste the 

1 6 



inside lining to inside of vest. This will leave an opening 
at the top of neck and bottom- Now baste, placing both 
back seams together, and baste each way to the side seams. 
This will leave an opening, now only at the neck, thereby 
forming a pocket, or bag for the vest, as it were. Sew 
with machine, in same seam as at first, down side seam, 
across shoulder, and bottom, and around arm holes, notch 
lining around back arm hole. Remove basting, and turn 
vest right side out at the neck. Baste lining even around 
bottom and arm hole. Now baste lining across back of 
neck, inside and out, then fell entire lining. 

When basting the shoulders of vest, have the back lin- 
ing one quarter of an inch full in the hollow of front of 
shoulder, to allow for stretching, and to form a concave. 

Should vests require to be made larger, when one has 
the lining out, all one has to do, is to mark with chalk or 
thread, the amount to be made larger, adding amount from 
the old seam on back, and baste forepart side scams to 
the mark to be made larger. If new pockets are required, 
and one is not familiar with the work, remove the pocket 
very carefully, observing every detail as to how it should 
be put together. Iron out smooth and cut new pocket, 
seam around, all but mouth, and place inside of pocket, 
and turn edges in all around top or mouth of pocket, and 
fell with silk same color as pocket (never remove welt 
from pocket when only new pockets are required). Should 
the buttonholes need repairing, repair them. Also see 
that the buttons are sewed on firm. Darn all holes, and 
clean and allow to dry before new lining is placed. 

NEW WAIST BAND LINING IN TROUSERS. 

Remove old one, and iron out smooth and use for 
pattern. Cut new one out and baste in and fell around 
tops and down sides, and fasten at pockets to hold in place. 
If new buttons are required, sew them on before new lin- 
ing is placed, so as not to sew through the lining- Repair 
trousers where needed. 

To repair sleeves that are worn out around the bottom 

run a basting thread around both sleeves five inches from 
the bottom of cuff, to hold lining in place, then rip sleeve 
lining around the bottom, unfasten the turn up of sleeve 
from the wigan, (darn sleeve edge if necessary when it 

17 



is v.-orn through), now baste up firmly one eighth of an. 
inch, or as much more as the sleeve will allow and still 
be of sufficient length, (run basting one-quarter inch from 
bottom), fasten the turn up back to the wigan with bast- 
ing (this basting is left in) ; now let sleeve lining come 
down, and if it is longer than to the end of cuff; cut off 
what comes below. 

Then turn sleeve lining in on the turn up two inches 
from the bottom of cuff with basting stitches, and fell 
lining with silk same color as the cloth or lining. Finish 
both sleeves the same. Remove basting, turn sleeves 
right side out; and press all around cuff as explained. 
When felling do not take long stitches, short ones look 
neater and are stronger and work will have a better ap- 
pearance Vvdien finished. Should the slee\e he finished 
with stitching around the cuff, finish the same when re- 
pairing. Sew buttons on, this completes the repairing 
of sleeves at the bottom. , 

HOW TO PUT VELVET COLLARS ON COATS. 

Remove old one, pick out old stitches in coat collar 
(the old stitches in velvet do not matter), place coat in a 
convenient manner on the press-jack and press collar and 
lapels into shape., 

Cut new velvet collar one-eighth inch larger on each 
side than tlie pattern, or larger if necessary, and steam 
over an iron as explained. Stretch the edges a trifle on 
each side of ^•el^■et, being careful not to lea\e finger or 
thumli marks, and when cool, baste on coat, (silk tliread 
should be used when basting velvet) in collar crease 
through veh'et to hold in place. 

Run another basting below crease and in the stand 
of collar, and another row of basting on leaf of collar close 
to the crease. Run another basting near the outside edge 
of collar leaf, and form a cushion at each end to allow 
ample room for ends to curl under (instead of up). See 
that the velvet is not basted on too tight or too short. 

Now turn velvet in over old seam or stitches on the 
inside of coat collar, from end to end; and baste velvet 
over edge and all around leaf. Now cut velvet off even 
along the leaf, then fell inside of velvet to coat neck W'ith 
silk to match; and herringbone velvet to leaf all around 

i8 



from end to end. Make a loop or hanger out of a straight 
piece of Hning one-half inch wide, and turn all edges in 
and fold again and fell together; now sew to the coat as 
before, turning both edges of loop in, and tacking same 
through stand of collar. Remove all basting by cutting 
each stitch and pulling out from the right side, and with 
the nap of the velvet. 

TO STEAM COLLAR. 

Place iron on its side, cover with a piece of paper, over 
this lay a wet sponge cloth ; then hold coat collar very 
close to steaming cloth (when one is familiar with the 
work they may allow the collar to rest on the steaming 
cloth for a minute), and move back and forth, allowing 
steam to come through the velvet. Then remove the 
collar and shape by hand, as when worn. Brush the nap 
gently to freshen while steaming, but with a very soft 
brush. Place on coat hanger, and allow to dry before 
wearing or delivering. 

Good sewing, good pressing, well finished ends and 
corners, lightncoS of touch which holds the work without 
apparently touching it, will give to the finished garment 
a fresh look. 

All these are important considerations. 

When darning, great care must be taken to have the 
work finished up neatly, as darning and mending is an art, 
and like everything else, requires patience and practice. . 

Basting is only used in the preparation of work, to 
hold stuff and lining, or any two or more parts of the work 
together, while it is being stitched, as none of the basting 
is left in the finished garment. It is also used as a guide 
for sewing and marking on light colored goods as it will 
not leave a mark as would colored chalk. For ordinary 
work, basting stitches should be cut every few inches and 
drawn out. 

It is impossible to prevent trousers bagging at the 
knee, but here is an idea that will help materially, to keep 
knees in shape. Fasten a piece of silk to the forepart of 
trousers on the inside to the seams and across bottom 
and top seven inches above and ten inches below the knee, 
being careful not to allow stitches to show through on 
right side. 

19 



Buttonholes may be made easy to work by spacing 
off the number required, with pins or thread marks. 

Mark length of hole, and stitch on a machine the 
desired length, then turn at right angles and take two 
stitches, then turn back and stitch other side. Turn at 
right angles and take two more stitches, thereby tacking 
both ends. All buttonholes may be stitched in one gar- 
ment without removing from the machine. 

This method takes the place of serging or overcasting 
and is much better for thin ravelly goods. 

MAKING BUTTONHOLES. 

Buttonholes should be overcasted or serged as soon 
as cut, with fine thread or silk, the stitches should be light, 
loose and even, this is done with a slanting sitch. 

Making buttonholes: Insert the neddle on the edge 
of the material and when half way through, take the two 
threads at the eye of the needle bring them towards you 
at the right and under the point of the needle, drawing 
the thread from you, making the purl or loop stitch come 
directly on the edge of the buttonhole. Stitches should 
lay close together just far enough apart for the purl or loop 
stitch to form, always have each stitch of the universal 
length so the sitches will look straight on each side of the 
buttonhole, the stitches may be placed closer together at 
the end as most wear comes there. 

DARNING A THREE CORNERED TEAR. 

A three cornered tear may be darned in two ways. 
Commence by darning diagonally through the center, 
darning back and forth towards the end of the tear until 
one-half has been finished ; then begin at the center and 
work in the opposite direction- At the corner, the stitches 
should form the shape of a fan. Another method which 
is stronger, is done by. darning a square in the angle, first 
with the warp threads, then with the woof threads, and 
finishing each end across the tear. 

HEMS AND THE FELLING OF SAME. 

A hem is a fold of goods doubled twice to prevent a 
raw edge. The fold should be turned even and straight 

20 



with the thread of the material, on this depends the neat- 
ness of one's work. The hem should always be turned in 
toward the worker and basted firmly not too near the edg, 
leaving one-eighth inch space for working. Felling — 
when felling or hemming, the needle should take up only 
the edge to be hemmed or felled down and just enough 
to hold on the jcloth or lining. When felling or hemming 
take small stitches close together, even, and do not draw 
thread or silk too tight as to cause the edge to have the 
appearance of the teeth of a saw. 

BACK STITCHING. 

The back stitch is made by placing the needle back in 
the last stitch, bringing it out once the length of the last 
stitch, then placing the needle back into last stitcth and 
so on, being careful not to draw the thread too tight as 
to have a drawing appearance, make the stitches follow each 
other without leaving a space between. Back stitching 
is used in places where much strain is on the seam. 

Bias hems, such as sleeve head lining, etc. 

All bias hems and curved edges, should have the folds 
basted in. 

LESSON IV. 

ALTERATIONS. 

How to shorten and lengthen coat sleeves. How to 
raise and lower collars. How to alter (or change a coat 
that is too large around the neck and collar. How to 
make the alteration when a coat is too large over the jchest, 
How to change a vest that is too large around. How to 
make a vest larger around. How to change trousers that 
are too long. How to lengthen trousers. How to make 
trousers smaller around the waist. How to make trousers 
larger around the waist, whether there is an outlet or not. 
How to make button cords for sewing on buttons. An 
easy way to hang a skirt. How to iron over buttons with- 
out breaking. Also how to iron embroidery. 

HOW TO MAKE ALTERATIONS ON GARMENTS. 

When sleeves are to be shortened or lengthened, have 
customer try coat on, and mark with chalk, the length 
desired. Then remove coat and run a basting of cotton 
around both sleeves, five inches above cuff, to hold Hning 
in place, while doing the work. Then with a knife or 
scissors, rip lining around both cuffs. Unfasten turn up 
from wigan. This will allow turn up to fall down. Now 



mark with chalk, around both sleeves, the correjct length. 
Turn up and baste solid, and fasten turn up, to wigan, 
same as before. Now allow lining to fall down, and cut 
off even all around the end of the cuff. Baste lining two 
inches from the edge of cuff, and fell with silk same color 
as the cloth or lining. These instructions are for shorten- 
ing sleeves. 

When sleeves are to be lengthened, proceed as before, 
but with this difference, — should the lining, and turn up 
of cuff not meet, it will be necessary to piece the lining 
or sew hand facings to the bottom of sleeve, same as the 
cloth in garment, or as near as possible. Then fell sleeve 
lining to facing . 

When sleeves are to be lengthened, baste a piece of 
wigan to that which is now in place, the amount to be 
lengthened, and fasten turn up to the wigan, and turn 
sleeve lining in two inches from the end of cuff. Fell 
sleeve lining to turn up as before. 

Sleeves may be lengthened all of the turn up, by 
sewing a piece of cloth to the sleeve, same as the garment, 
same size around, and sewn in a seam on the machine. 
Baste and turn edges out even, and press firm, stitch 
around with machine, thereby, making it firm and solid. 

Stitch edge of sleeve to match edge of coat. 

Fasten ends of silk thread by threading them to a 
needle and taking a stitch or two, then cut off. Sew 
buttons on as required. This )completes the lengthening 
of sleeves. 

Should coat collar be too high, run a row of basting 
cotton, two inches below the collar seam ; mark with chalk 
the amount to be lowered, then rip with knife or scissors, 
inside and out from crease to crease. Now baste under 
collar to neck of coat first, and fasten inside of coat to the 
stand of collar. Now baste the outside or top collar on 
the inside to the coat in keeping with the amount lowered 
and fell inside and outside of [collar. Sew loop on back 
of coat collar inside, and remove basting. Place coat 
collar on press-jack in a convenient manner and press in 
same crease as when worn. 

Place on a coat hanger, to retain its proper shape and to 
dry before wearing. (When basting under collar to coat 
neck, start basting from center back seam, forward to 
each side.) 



22 



When coat collar is to be raised, run a row of basting 
cotton two inches below the collar seam, from end to end. 
Rip under collar and unfasten coat from stand of collar 
inside and rip inside collar from crease to crease. Mark 
with chalk the amount to be raised, and start basting from 
the center back seam, forward to each side; then fasten 
coat to the stand of collar, and baste inside or top collar 
to the inside of Icoat the amount raised on the outside. 
Fasten loop to stand of collar inside, remove bastings and 
place coat collar on press-jack in a convenient way, press 
as before and hang to dry before wearing. 

If however, the coat collar is to be raised and one 
finds that by raising, that the collar will be too long, the 
collar may be cut in the center and seamed or taken off 
at one end (if only raised on one side) or both as the case 
may be ; if raised all around, the 'collar must be shortened 
at both ends. 

This is a very particular piece of work, and should 
not be attempted unless the garment is old, and one wants 
to practice on it ; this may be had by altering an old gar- 
ment for practice, as with practice, most anything may be 
acjcomplished. (When one has had considerable exper- 
ience in this line, then it may be done without taking it 
to a tailor; until then, it will be best to let the experienced 
tailor do the work on a good coat.) 

When a coat is too large around the neck and collar, 

and falls away at the bottom when unbuttoned, and bulges 
at the opening when buttoned, is an indication that the 
garment is not balanced properly. This may be changed 
to fit perfectly in the following manner: Run a bastmg 
three inches from each side of the shoulder seams and to 
front of coat to collar end. Rip collar off from crease to 
crease, rip shoulder seams from neck to within two inches 
of the' sleeve seam, and mark with M^alk, the amount to 
be taken in (as the shoulder strap is too long from neck to 
bottom of arm hole and m.ust be shortened so that the 
coat will hang squarely and well balanced when unbut- 
toned as w^ell as when buttoned), mark from neck gradu- 
ally to nothing at the end of the two inches, from the 
shoulder or sleeve head ; this amount to be taken off the 
forepart in all cases, baste back to shoulder seam and press 
open, unless a trifle may be taken off the center back seam 
at top, which is a good idea, so that the collar will fall 
more closely to the neck. Baste shoulder and lining to- 

23 



gether. Now baste collar on, starting at the center back 
seam, and baste forward each way, and if found too long, 
shorten as explained above; fell shoulders and collar. 
Finish collar neatly and press shoulder and collar. 

When one side is to be altered (this one may see 
when customer has coat on and buttoned, and one side 
stands away from the neck), in that case, only change one 
side. 

¥/hen a coat is too large over the chest, and by setting 
the buttons back from the edge two and one-half inches 
(which is only to be done in extreme cases) will not have 
the desired effect ; run a row of basting cotton around arm 
hole two inches from the sleeve seam, across shoulder to 
the front end of collar and two injches from the shoulder 
seam. Rip sleeves and shoulders out and collar off 
from end to end, press seam out smooth, and mark with 
chalk the amount shoulder is to be advanced, say from 
one-quarter to three-quarters of an inch, as the case may 
be (tiiis may be easily determined when the coat is on the 
customer, notice the amount of lap and then judge the 
amount), baste back shoulder to forepart of coat having 
the top of back even with the chalk mark ; seam and 
press open, baste shoulder and lining together, now baste 
collar on, then baste sleeve in, and seam and press open 
seam as before and fix up sleeve head, and cut off end of 
shoulder amount shoulder was advanced at shoulder point. 
This will take surplus goods away from the front and al- 
low goods to go back; finish collar, shoulders and sleeves 
and press. 

Double breasted coats are different, the buttons may 
be set from the edge, according to style and fashion. 

When a coat is too large in the back, take part out 
in the side seams and part out in the center back seam; 
the best way to determine the amount to be taken out, 
is to pin each seam a trifle when customer has coat on, 
then one will get the proper effect of the alteration. 

When a vest is too large around, it may be pinned on 
the customer, down the side seams and center back 
the desired amount to be taken out; this alteration may 
be done in the following manner: Rip vest across back 
of neck, rip each side seam, mark with chalk the amount 
to be taken in on each side seam and center back seams. 

24 



Baste forepart to that of the back at side seams and baste 
center i^ack seam together, lining and outside. 

Seam on machine, remove the basting, turn vest right 
side out and fell across back of neck. Press side seams, 
back and around neck ; place on hanger to retain shape. 

When vest is to be made larger, proceed as follows : 
Rip side seams and across the balck of neck, press out side 
seams of back, and remove stitches, and if there is an 
outlet, mark with chalk the amount to be let out on each 
side, and baste as before and finish the same. If there is 
no outlet, one must sew a piece of lining to the outside 
and inside lining; press open the seams or stitch to one 
side and press. Then mark with chalk the amount to 
be let out and proceed as explained and finish. 

When trousers are too long, they may be shortened 
in the following manner: Mark with chalk (using the 
tape line for measuring length) the desired length, loosen 
the bottoms, (if felled, rip with knife or scissors, being 
careful not to cut the cloth), if there is rubber in the bot- 
toms, wet a piece of cloth with gasolene, and rub over 
the outside and pull turn up free from the bottoms. 
Turn trousers inside out, allow to dry after using 
gasolene before turning up bottoms. If rubber is 
to be put in the bottoms, cut a piepe one inch and a half 
wide, and baste in the turn up or hem and fasten hem to 
the side seams with silk, only leave a two inch turn up, 
cut balance off. 

Before pressing, place on the small end of press-jack 
and press all around as in pressing cuffs or bottom of 
trousers as explained. (But not with sponge cloth, only 
with iron and wet, bottoms with sponge). Press until 
rubber is thoroughly melted and set. When one has 
pressed both bottoms all around, turn trousers right side 
out and press bottoms as in ordinary pressing. 

When bottoms are felled, leave two inches for turn 
up and cut off the balance. Fell with silk all around, being 
careful not to let stitches show through on right side. 
Press bottoms same as explained. 

When trousers are to be lengthened, loosen them at 
the bottom measure vAth tape line, the desired length, 
from crotch down, making them one inch shorter in the back 
or according to fashion. Mark with chalk the desired 
length, and place rubber or fell as the case may be, and 

25 



press as explained; but if trousers arc to be lengthened, 
all. It will be necessary, to sew a piece of cloth to the bot- 
toms same size and same cloth (or as near as possible), 
sew on machine and baste edges out even, and place rub- 
ber or fell; press bottoms and finish in the usual way 
by turning trousers right side out, and pressing bottoms 
and legs. Sew heel protectors on (they may be made of 
silesia by turning all edges in, or made of cloth, same 
material as trousers) half inch wide and four inches long, 
sewn half; each side of the center or crease of back trouser 
bottom. This must be sewed to the inside of bottom. 

When trousers are too large around the waist, mark 
with chalk (or pin on customer), the amount to be taken 
in, rip back seam down as far as is required. Remove the 
two back suspender buttons and rip lining back far enough 
for convenience in working. Baste the back seam to- 
gether and sew in the chalk mark (by machine or by 
hand) to within two inches of the top of waist band; press 
seam open and fasten back seam at waist to the waist band 
on each side and leave an outlet one inch and a half wide, 
eajch side of the back seam at the top, tapering to nothing 
at the bottom or three inches from the inside leg seam. 

Sew back suspender buttons on two inches each side 
of back seam. Put a good neck on buttons to allow 
suspender button holes to fit smoothly around button. 
This may be done by placing a match or pin over the top 
of button and sewing over it. filling the holes with twisted 
thread or button cord made for that purpose, as explained 
in (how to make button cord.) 

When holes are filled, remove the match or pin, and 
wind cord around under button, and fasten b}-; taking two 
stitches through the neck, and cut thread off. Now fell 
lining back in place, leaving an opeing at top of, say two 
in'ches in back seam for ease. Press and finish in the 
usual way. 

When trousers are to be made larger around waist, 

rip lining three inches each side of the back seam at top 
and remove the two top back suspender buttons. Rip 
back seam down the required amount and press out the 
mark made by the seam. Now with the chalk, mark the 
amount to be made larger, half the amount on each side 
of seam, baste seam and sew on machine or by hand in chalk 
mark. Remove basting, and press seam open, fasten to 

26 



each side of the seam at waist as before, leaving two inches 
open at the top for ease. Sew two back suspender buttons 
on; and fell waist band lining. Finish and press in the 
usual way. 

When trousers are to made larger at the waist, and 
there is nothing to let out, remove back suspender buttons 
as explained, and waist band lining. Cut a piece of 
cloth "V" shape as long as is necessary and of the same 
material or as near as possible; make this pie'ce two seams 
wider than required. This may be determined by the 
amount to be made larger, (the larger the piece at the top, 
the longer the wedge will have to be, as it will not do to 
have an abrupt slant). Baste right sides of cloth and 
trousers together, sew on machine and remove basting 
and press open the seam. Then baste other side and 
seam, then press open; fasten a piece of canvas across the 
top of waist where piece has been set in, and stitch with 
machine across, in keeping with the stitching on the waist 
band. If no waist seam, just stitch even with the waist 
stitching. Sew back suspender buttons on, and fell waist 
band lining at top, and finish as explained, fastening waist 
band lining to seams to hold it in place; press and finish. 
When pressing seams, always press on the smooth side 
of the press-jack, and dampen with the wet sponge, this 
will make pressing easier; but do not put too mulch water 
on seams. 

How to make button cords for sewing on buttons. 
Thread a needle with linen thread double, then rub bees- 
wax up and down the thread ; then twist, and when one 
has twisted enough, rub with a piece of cloth. This will 
help to keep the twist in the cord and make it strong, 
which is very essential in sewing on buttons ; one knows 
how annoying it is to have buttons coming ofif; this may 
be prevented by sewing them on good with twisted thread. 

When using silk thread, always draw it through bees- 
wax and rub through cloth to remove excess wax. This 
will make the silk stronger, and also will slip through the 
cloth more easily when sewing. 

A good method of hanging a skirt. Have customer 
stand on top of the stairs, the fitter sitting on the second 
step. This is an easy way to see that skirts hang evenly 
all around, marking the proper length without rising, or 
getting on the knees or sitting on the floor. 

27 



Ironing over buttons made easy and safe. Place four 
ply wadding on press-jack, buttons facing wadding. Iron 
from the wrong side until dry. This is equally good in 
ironing embroidery waists. (When ironing embroidery 
white wadding should be used.) 

LESSON V. 

PRESSING. 

How to sponge and shrink all kinds of woolen goods 
for dressmakers and tailors, before making into garments, 
also for one's own use at home. How to use the iron and 
sponge cloths. How to press hard finished worsteds. 
How to press single and double breasted sack boats, over- 
coats, rain coats, Tuxedos, motormen and conductors, also 
fatigue coats, cutaways, morning, dress coats. Prince Al- 
berts, military, clerical, uniforms, footman's liveries, New- 
market, Paddock and Palitot. All kind of jackets, coats 
and skirts for ladies. How to press single and double 
breasted vests with or without collars, also clerical and 
fancy vests. How to press trousers. 

How to sponge and shrink all kinds of woolen goods 
for dressmakers and tailors, before making into garments, 
also for one's use at home. 

To prepare a sponge jcloth for that purpose, use un- 
bleached cotton four yards long, (or as long as the cloth 
to be shrunk requires), boil in soap and water for one 
hour, rinse in clean water to remove any lint, then it is 
ready for use. 

Place woolen goods to be sponged on a table or clean 
floor, then wet the sponge cloth by dipping it into a pail 
or basin of warm water so that it wnll get thoroughly wet, 
wring out almost dry (but not so dry as when pressing) 
and place over the goods smoothly, see that the cloth is 
free from wrinkles. Make a flat roll six inches wide, or 
as wide as a wrapping board would be (do not roll on a 
board as it will leave a mark difficult to remove). Roll 
evenly until cloth to be shrunk is thoroughly covered, sides 
and ends with sponge cloth. 

Time required for goods to remain in sponge. Close 
woven material, such as hard finished worsteds, broad 
cloth, kerseys, meltons and beavers, require to be left in 
sponge three hours v\^hile open wove goods, such as home- 
spuns, unfinished worsteds, soft overlcoatings, and ladies' 

28 



cloth requires but two hours. When goods is ready to be 
taken out of sponge, unroll and place over a round pole, 
(sufficient height to allow cloth to clear the floor), or 
lay smoothly on a table or floor. 

When dry, fold (not roll) double, and so on until you 
have a fold seven or eight inches wide, and small enough 
to place in a package. 

The wrinkles may be pressed out with a warm iron, 
being careful not to allow gloss to form, and see that iron 
is not hot enough to burn or scorch cloth. Also to see 
that ends are even especially on stripes and checks, and 
to see that checks and plaids mat]ch. 

When pressing always have the iron to the right on 
the table, the edge of the garment facing toward the 
presser. Start pressing the right side of all garments first. 
In this way forming a system of doing the work. 

When pressing all kinds of coats, vests, ladies' jackets 
and coats, have the neck, collar, or waist seam lying on 
the small end of the press-jack, and start from the center 
back seam of all coats and vests, and press forward on 
the right side, toward the front edge. 

To press the left side of all coats and vests, reverse the 
press-jack and garment so that nejck, collar waist seam 
or band is lying to the left. Commencing as before, from 
the center back seam of garment, and continue pressing 
left side, and around to the front edge, which must be 
facing the presser. 

Coats, vests, jackets and coats, should be placed on 
hangers to retain their proper shape. 

A good iron rest for the table, is made by nailing a 
smooth horseshoe to a block of wood, a trifle larger than 
the shoe. 

When using the under woolen press cloth, cotton 
sponge cloth and iron, lay the under woolen press cloth, 
and sponge cloth on that part of the garment to be 
pressed, and apply the iron until sponge cloth 
shows signs of drying. Then remove the 
cloths and iron, and slap with the back of the brush 
that part just pressed, to refreshen same, and brush the 
part pressed, with the thread or nap of the fabric; thus 
making the garment look like new. Go over the entire 
garment (and all garments) in this manner until the whole 
garment has been pressed. 

29 



When trousers have been pressed, place them over 
a round pole, suspended from the celling, or fastened to 
the wall with brackets. A still better way is to place them 
on individual hangers. 

Do not give customers garments damp from press- 
ing, place them on hangers and allow them to remain for 
one hour before wearing or delivering. , 

Do not try to press clothes that are damp from clean- 
ing or otherwise. Allow them to thoroughly dry, when 
they will press more easily, and customers better satisfied, 
by giving them first-rate work. 

When a garment has been pressed all over, examine 
it thoroughly for gloss, and where any eppears, remove it 
as explained (in how to press hard finished worsteds.) 

This process should be followed carefully when press- 
ing all kinds of garments. 

When pressing, the iron should never be shoved or 
pushed, as in ironing, as before explained; as it is apt to 
stretch where not required. Only heavy materials require 
heavy pressing or great strength. Whatever the mater- 
ial, pressing is work that requires to be done carefully and 
slowly. When pressing seams, allow the iron to touch 
only the center of the seam, then the edges of the seam 
will not be outlined on the outside of the garment. This 
however, is only intended for light weight goods, as when 
pressing seams in heavy material, it is necessary to press 
more solid. 

How to press hard finished worsteds. When pressing 
hard finished worsteds, place under woolen press cloth, 
and sponge cloth over the part to be pressed, (wring 
sponge cloth as nearly dry as possible), and apply the iron, 
not too hot, allowing it to rest until sponge cloth is entirely 
dry. (This is termed by tailors, as dry pressing or gloss- 
ing). Now remove iron, and press cloths and place a 
damp part of the sponge cloth over that part just pressed, 
to remove the gloss, if any, by applying the iron lightly, 
and slap with the back of the brush while steaming. Also 
brushing the nap of the cloth. 

Avoid stretching while pressing especially the edges 
and collar, unless it is required, (and the presser under- 
stands where to stretjch, and is familiar with the fitting 
qualities of the garment.) When pressing around the 
pockets, have flaps on the outside, and turn pockets inside 

30 



out before cleaning, that all dust and dirt may be removed, 
then return the pockets to their proper place before start- 
ing to press. 

When a coat or vest is placed on the table or press- 
jack, to be pressed, and one notices fullness along front 
edges and bottom, press fullness away by laying under 
press cloth and sponge cloth over part to be pressed and 
leave iron until sponge cloth it entirely dry, then remove 
cloths and apply a damp part of the press cloth, and iron 
again to remove gloss as explained before. Alv^ays have 
edge of garments pointing toward the presser. This may 
be learned and accomplished in a short time with little 
prajctice. , 

How to clean and press single and double breasted 
sack coats, motormen and conductors, also fatigue: Brush 
thoroughly, and if necessary whip with cane, being careful 
not to braeak the buttons on the garment. Turn all pock-, 
ets inside out, and have flaps on the outside. Remove all 
spots ; special care must be taken to remove grease and 
dirt from the collar, also the fronts, with the cleaning fluid. 
Place on coat hangers and when dry, proceed to press as 
follows : 

Have coat lying on the table or tailor's bench to the 
right, draw the right cuff over the small end of the press- 
jack which should be pointing to the right. Lay the 
sponge cloths over that part of the garment to be pressed, 
(which ypu have prepared by wetting in a pail or basin 
of warm water used for that purpose and wrung until al- 
most dry), then apply the iron until the sponge cloths 
shows sign of drying. Then remove the sponge cloths 
and iron, and slap with the back of brush (as has been ex- 
plained.) 

Continue this around the right sleeve cuff, and also 
the left. Then with the coat in the same position, reverse 
the press-jack and place the right sleeve, top side up on the 
large end of the press-jack, being careful to have the sleeve 
smoothed out nicely, then lay sponge cloths over and apply 
the iron, pressing full length and width, up and down the 
sleeve, (being careful to see that no wrinkles are pressed 
in the sleeve.) 

Remove the cloths and iron as before, slapping with 
the back of the brush, then brushing the nap to refreshen 
the cloth. 

31 



Turn sleeve over and press under side of sleeve the 
same. 

Press left sleeve in the same manner. Crease sleeves 
front and back, if requested by customer. 

Reverse the press-jack and draw right shoulder of coat 
over the small end of the press-jack in a convenient man- 
ner, and press around the armholes, by laying the sponge 
cloths on the part to be pressed. Apply the iron as be- 
fore, and then slap with the bajck of the brush. Now press 
around left shoulder and arm hole in the same manner. 

Next place the coat so that the collar points to the 
right on the large end of the press-jack. Lay the sponge 
cloths on the back of the coat, applying the iron as before, 
and press down back and around right side of coat to the 
front edge ; always having the edge of the garment toward 
the presser. Reverse press-jack and coat, then as before, 
commence pressing at the center back seam, and forward 
to the front edge. This completes the left side. 

Place the coat on table or tailor's bench, and reverse 
press-jack ; lift coat and place collar or press-jack in a 
convenient way, so that the collar and lapel, when pressed, 
will be creased the same as when worn. 

Commence pressing from the center of collar to the 
right side of lapel, being careful not to stretch the edges 
of lapel or collar. Then from the center of collar at the 
bajck, press forward on left side as before. Turn coat in- 
side out, and smooth lining with cool iron, and with an 
almost dry sponge cloth. This will remove any wrinkles, 
and leave the lining smooth. 

Now press the right side of facing and lapel, by laying 
four-ply of wadding on the press-jack, and place right fore- 
part of coat so that the buttons face toward the wadding, 
and press on the wrong side, the buttons will sink into the 
wadding thereby avoiding the breaking of same, which 
is very easily done if great care is not taken. Now re- 
move the wadding and press left side on the padded side 
of press-jack in the usual manner. Now turn the coat 
right side out, place right shoulder in a convenient manner 
on the small end of the press-jack, and if any wrinkles ap- 
pear on top of the right sleeve head, press them out. Do 
the same with the left side. 

Look coat over thoroughly for gloss, if any appears, 
place coat on press-jalck in a convenient manner and re- 
move as explained. , 

.32 



When pressing coats, be careful to have the flaps on 
the outside, the pockets returned to their proper place in- 
side, before starting to press. 

Roll fronts of coats to the inside, so that they will retain 
their proper shape, also to give to them that chesty effect, 
which is very essential, in the pressing of all kinds of coats, 
and vests. One will soon become familiar with the work 
by a little practice. 

Place coats on hangers to dry before wearing or de- 
livering. Sack overcoats, rain-coats and Tuxedos, are 
pressed in te same way. 

How to clean and press cutaway dress, Prince Albert, 
military, clerical, uniforms, footman's liveries, Newmarket, 
Paddock and Palitot. The above garments are cleaned and 
pressed the same as other garments, but with this differ- 
ence : — Coats with skirts are pressed from the collar or 
neck to the waist line or seam, then moved up to the waist 
line or seam, and pressed from that to the bottom of skirt, 
and around to the front, having the edge of the garment 
pointing toward the presser. All coats lined with silk are 
pressed very lightly, especially lapels and facings (as the 
mark of the iron shows easy; and on silks is difficult to re- 
move.) 

Silk should look fluffy in a garment, and therefore 
does not require much pressing. Great care must be taken 
when cleaning, pressing, and repairing dress suits, 
Tuxedos, Prince Alberts, and any garment that is silk 
lined. The price to charge for such work may 
only be figured by the amount of silk, and time 
required to do the work. Silk facings may be had by 
mailing samples to this office, and we will send price list. 

How to clean and press ladies' jackets and coats: 

Brush thoroughly, and if necessary, whip with cane to re- 
move all dust and dirt. Remove all spots with the cleaning 
fluid, place on hangers, and when dry, press as follows: 
Ladies' jackets and coats are pressed the same as men's, 
but with the following differences: Press around cuffs, 
sleeves and shoulders on the small end of the press-jack, 
then start at the center back seam and press forward to 
the front edge, having the collar or neck pointing to the 
right. Always have the edge of the garment facing the 
presser. Reverse the press-jack, coat or jacket, and com- 
mence pressing as before, down the back seam and around 



33 



left side to front edge. Lay sleeves on the press-jack and 
press as before, being careful to have plaits in the right 
creases and the gatherings in their proper place. Do not 
allow more plaits or wrinkles to form on the top of the 
sleeves than is needed. 

How to clean and press all kinds of skirts for ladies, 
Brush thoroughly and whip if necessary, turn the skirt 
inside out, and brush dust and dirt, from the seams and 
bottom. Clean all grease spots, if any, with the cleaning 
fluid, place on hangers, and when dry, press as follows : 
Draw skirt on press-jack with the waist band pointing to 
the left, on the small end of the press-jack; the skirt to 
be drawn on the press-jack to the left. Use the sponge 
cloths and iron the same as when pressing other garments. 
Press around the top of the skirt and as far below as the 
press-jack will allow. If skirt is plaited, be careful to have 
the plaits lying smooth on the press-jack, either pin or 
baste plaits in their proper creases before starting to press. 
,When pressing thin skirts, it is not necessary to press 
very hard, only until the steam arises, then slap with the 
back of the brush to keep steam in the goods, also to re- 
freshen the garment Place on skirt hangers to dry before 
wearing or delivering. Always look for gloss, and if any 
appears, remove as explained. 

How to clean and press single and double dreasted 
vests, clerical, with or without [collar: Brush thoroughly 
and whip with cane, if necessary, to remove dust and dirt, 
being careful not to break the buttons on the garment. 
Turn all pockets inside out to remove all dust and dirt 
from them. Then remove all spots with the cleaning fluid 
as explained. Place on coat hanger, and when dry, press 
as follows : Place the right forepart of the vest smooth 
on the press-jack, with the edge facing the presser, and the 
neck or the collar pointing to the right. Cover with 
sponge cloths and apply the iron until the cloth shows 
signs of drying. Remove and slap with the back of the 
brush, then brush the nap of the fcloth to refreshen and 
make it look like new, being careful not to stretch the open- 
ing when pressing the forepart and shoulders. 

When pressing the foreparts of vests, start at the side 
seams, and press forward to the front edge. Now reverse 
the press-jack and vest and press left side in the same 
manner, around the shouders and arm holes. Now smooth 
the wrinkles from the back, starting from the center and 

34 



pressing forward to the right side seam ; then press the 
left side in the same manner. This removes the wrinkles, 
and may be done with almost dry sponge cloth and medium 
warm iron. 

All vests are pressed in the same way, with the ex- 
ception of fancy or white vests. With these use a plain 
white cotton cloth, and wet sponge with clean water. 

Fancy wool vests should be dry cleaned before press- 
ing. 

Wash vests require a little thin boiled starch to give 
body to goods, then iron when almost dry. Turn all pock- 
ets inside out before starting to press. The pockets are 
pressed first, then returned to their proper place, thereby 
keeping the mouth of the pojcket neat and even. Continue 
the ironing until the vest is completed. With a little prac- 
tice, one will soon become familiar with the work. Always 
being careful not to stretch the opening. Rather shrink in, 
by pressing in a half circle from left to right toward the 
front edge. 

When pressing vests examine the pockets and see if 
there is a chamois vv'atch pocket, if there is sew or fasten 
a piece of cloth on the outside of vest pocket as a reminder 
not to press over the pocket; if you did it would spoil the 
chamois, and a new pojcket would have to be put in for the 
customer. 

How to clean and press trousers: Brush thoroughly 
from the right side, and whip, if necessary, then turn them 
inside out. Also the pockets. See that all dust and dirt 
is thoroughly removed, also lint from the seams. Then 
turn right side out, and remove all dirt and grease spots 
with the cleaning fluid as explained. Place on hangers, 
and when dry, proceed to press as follows : Place trousers 
flat on a covered table with the knees up (trousers being 
turned inside out) wet bags at knee with sponge. Apply 
the iron, not too hot and press in a circle to the center, 
to remove and shrink away the bag; now do the same with 
the left leg. Turn trousers right side out, and press 
around bottoms, same as in pressing the cuffs on coats. 
Reverse press-jack and trousers, and press around tops 
with sponge cloths and iron as far down as seat line or 
end of fly, starting from the right side of fly and pressing 
around to the left fly. Remove the press-ja'ck and lay 
trousers flat on the table or bench that has been covered 
with felt or cloth (melton, kersey or thibet). Place creases 



at the bottom together with the left hand, and with the 
right hand place the tv/o top suspender buttons together, 
then lay them flat on the bench or lengthwise of the 
table. Then turn the left leg back as far as the seat 
line, and straighten the right leg out smooth on the 
table. Cover with the sponge cloths and apply the 
iron, pressing full length of leg, until cloths shows sign 
of drying, pressing the front and back creases sharp. 
Then remove the iron and sponge cloths, then slap 
with the back of the brush to refreshen and brighten 
the cloth or garment. Now turn the leg over and 
press other side in the same manner; then turn leg over 
to inside as at first and bring the left leg down to meet the 
right bottom. Turn trousers over, and then turn the right 
leg back, and proceed to press the left inside leg the same 
as right. Turn left leg over and press outside. Now turn 
left leg over to inside as at first, bringing the right leg 
down to meet the left at the bottom, then have both legs 
lying perfelctly even on top of each other. Press them to- 
gether from fly or seat line, down to the bottom. Turn 
trousers over, and press other side in the same manner, 
using the back of brush for slapping and face to brush nap 
of cloth. Then place the press-jack on the table again, 
with the small end pointing to the right, then draw the 
right bottom of the leg over the small end of press-jack, 
and press crease out through the turn up. Do this at the 
front and back about two inches from the bottom. Now 
press the bottom of left leg the same way. 

Some customers do not want this crease taken out, 
then of course it is to be left in. But custom-made trous- 
ers are usually not pressed through the turn up. 

This completes the pressing of trousers, place on hang- 
ers before wearing or delivering. By practice, one may 
soon bdcome an expert. 

Broadfalls are pressed in the same way. Examine for 
gloss, and if any, remove as explained. 

LESSON VI. 

SELECTION OF MATERIAL. 

Amount required, for suits, vests, trousers, overcoats, 
dress suits and Prince Albert suits. Tuxedos, Paddock, 
Paletot; also ladies' waists, jackets (long and short), and 
skirts. The amount of material required to reline coats, 

.^6 



vests, and top of trousers ; ladies' coats and jackets ; velvet 
collars and silk facings. 

Amount of goods required for the following garments : 
Sack Suits — 36 to 42 inches breast measure, 3^ yards, 
54 inches wide. 

Cutaway or Morning Suit — 36 to 42 inches breast measure, 
3J,^ yards. 54 inches wide. 

• Prince Albert Suit — 36 to 42 inches breast measure, 3^ 
yards. 54 inches wide. 

Tuxedo Suit — 36 to 42 inches breast measure, 3^ yards, 

54 inches wide. 
Dress Suit — 36 to 42 inches breast measure, 3^/2 yards, 54 

inches wide. 

Sack Overcoat — 36 to 42 inches breast measure, 42 inches 
long, 2^ yards, 54 inches wide. 

Trousers — 30 to 42 inches waist measure, 36 to 42 seat 
measure, 30^/2 to 34 inside leg measure, 1^2 yards. 

Vests — 36 to 42 inches breast measure, i yard, 54 inches 

wide. 
Paddock or Palitot — 36 to 42 inches breast measure, 4 

yards, 54 inches wide. 

Ladies' Shirt Waist — 30 to 40 inches bust measure, 3>4 
yards, 2y inches wide. 

Ladies' Jackets and Coats (short) — 30 to 40 inches bust 
measure, 2^ yards, 54 inches wide. 

Ladies' Jackets and Coats (long) — 30 to 40 inches bust 

measure, 4^ yards, 54 inches wide. 

Ladies' Skirts — 20 to 42 inches waist measure, 40 to 44 
inches long, 4^ yards, 54 inches wide. 

Amount of goods required to reline the following gar- 
ments : 

Sack or Tuxedo Coat — 2 yards, 32 inch or i>4 yards, 54 
inches wide. Serge, Alpaca, Italian cloth, or silk, 
to match, i yard fancy sateen sleeve lining. 
Overcoats — 42 inches long, 2^ yards, 32 inches wide or 2 
yards, 54 inches wide. Serge, Italian cloth, or. 
Circassian, i^ yards satin sleeve lining, 20 inches 
wide- Or i yard. 40 inch Lusterene sleeve lining. 
Overcoats, Silk or Satin Lined Throughout — Require from 
4 to 5 yards. 

?>7 



Vests — ^ yard, 32 or 54 inches wide. Serge, Alpaca, 
Italian cloth or silk, for outside back, i yard 20 
inch fancy, sateen, for inside body lining. 

Trousers — ^ yard 20 inch colored sateen, for waist band 
lining. 

Dress Coats — Prince Alberts, 3 yards 30 inch silk, for the 

former, and 4 yards, for the latter. 
Tuxedo Facing — i yard heavy corded or fancy weave silk. 
Dress or Prince Albert (fancy) — % yard heavy corded or 

fancy weave silk. 
Velvet Collars for Overcoats — vary in width from 454 to 

6 inches wide on the bias. This may be determined 

when velvet collar is ripped off by measuring width. 
When new buttons are required, replace with as near 
as possible to the original. 

When using silk, and buttonhole twist, match cloth as 
near as can be had. 

LESSON VII. 

CARE OF CLOTHES. 

Under this lesson is explained the care of clothes. 
How to keep them looking fresh and clean. How to be 
well dressed. 

Care of clothes: Cleaning, brushing, repairing and 
pressing frequently is a step in the right channel, for a 
man's appearance depends largeh^, upon the care he takes 
of his clothes- Clothes should be brushed often especially 
after being worn in the dust and dirt, and should be hung 
up in a clean place where they will be out of the dust. 
Coats and vest should always be placed on coat hangers 
together to retain their shape, and to be ready for wear 
wdien wanted. The loop at the back of the coat collar, 
should never be used to hang coats up by, but for a few 
minutes, as the weight of garments will pull the collar out 
of shape. 

Trousers after being brushed thoroughly, should be 
turned inside out, and placed on hangers, by doing this 
you are reversing the folds and wrinkles that have formed, 
vv'hile wearing, thereby allowing the cloth to fall back into 
place. It is impossible to prevent trousers bagging at 
the knees, but may be prevented in this way. Fasten 
a piece of silk to the forepart of trousers on the inside to 
both leg seams across top and bottom of silk, seven inches 

38 



above and ten inches below the knee, being careful when 
sewing not to let the stitches show through on the out 
side. Another suggestion and a good one, is to buy two 
pairs trousers with each suit (except a dress suit, then it is 
not necessary.) and wear them alternately, two days at a 
time, and have them pressed each time you change, and 
turned inside out each night. 

It is a good idea to have a row of hooks at the top of 
one's wardrobe from which to hang these forms, thereby 
saving much space especially in the smaller houses. Care 
should be taken to draw trousers up well when wearing, 
so that they will set properly. When trousers are worn 
without suspenders, they must be cut shorter waisted, 
shorter in the legs and closer around the waist. If one 
wears suspenders it is a luxury to have a pair for each 
pair of trousers. Then when one adjustment is made saves 
any further bother. 

Brushing clothes is a very simple but necessary oper- 
ation, a fact which few people thoroughly appreciate. Fine 
clothes require brushing lightly with a soft brush, except 
when mud is to be removed, then a stifif brush should be 
used, after garment has been lightly beaten to loosen the 
dirt. Never use a whisk broom to brush clothes as they 
injure the fibre of the cloth. When brushing lay the coat 
on a table, and brush in the direction of the thread or nap 
of the fabric. 

A well made, well fitting garment should not be 
thrown away when slightly worn, but should be repaired, 
cleaned and pressed- Many times lasting as long after 
being repaired as at first. Unless absolutely necessary 
never patch, when darning will answer the purpose better. 
If the garment is not too badly worn baste a piece of cloth, 
the same as the material in the garment (or as near as pos- 
sible) under the weakened part and darn to this piece. One 
may back stitch with silk to match the cloth, or make a 
small running stitch. When the entire part has been thor- 
oughly darned, turn the garment inside out and herring- 
bone all around the piece of cloth (or patch to the inside) 
being careful not to allow stitches to show through on the 
outside. Press and they are ready for wear. This is 
especially good when repairing the seat of trousers. 

Tape is invaluable in repairing, as it may be used to 
strengthen weak places and where buttons are to be sewed, 

39 



acting as a stay, also saving time of turning the edges of 
the cloth in, and is less clums}^. 

Ruskin says, " Clothes carefully cared for, and rightly 
worn, show a balance of mind and respect." 

The freshness of a garment depends upon the care 
taken of it, and only requires a few minutes each time they 
are taken ofif; they should be carefully brushed, to re- 
move all dust and dirt, removing all spots, buttons sewed 
on and replaced when worn, new braid on the bottoms of 
skirts, cleaning and pressing, making little necessary al- 
terations. All these little duties given proper attention, 
will keep a wardrobe fresh and in good order. 

It is not always the wear on the clothes, that tell so 
sadly upon them. It is the care that they receive. A few 
garments, well made and properly fitted, and good care 
taken of them, is far more preferable than a number of in- 
ferior quality and make. 

When clothing is laid away for another season, they 
should first be thoroughly brushed, repaired, cleaned and 
pressed, to be ready for wear when needed. If placed in 
bags or boxes, the moth preventative should be sprinkled 
over freely Tailors' boxes are very good to place gar- 
ments in, that are not in use, and should be labeled on the 
outside as to the contents. 

Fold all articles on the seams, if possible, being careful 
when folding sleeves and collars. Coat lapels should be 
turned to lie flat; collars turned up, and the coat folded in 
the center back seam, sleeves lying together and on top 
of each other. Then fold in half crosswise, and place in 
the box. 

If fancy waists and coats are put in drawers, fill the 
sleeves with tissue paper. This will prevent wrinkling. 

To be well dressed, one's clothes must be of good ma- 
terial and fit well. The length of waist, and full length 
should be in proportion to the wearer, or as near fashion 
as good taste will permit. Sleeve the right length, and 
hang properly, and to come to the root of the thumb. The 
collar must fit close around the neck, the lapels should be 
neat and even, the opening in front should close without 
bulging when buttoned, and should have no cross wrinkles 
under the back of arms, and no wrinkles below the collar. 
The whole appearance of the garment must be easy, the 
chest should be of the athletic style (chesty), while the 

40 



waist should be close fitting and flat (not tight). The 
arm hole should not be too deep so that the coat will re- 
main in its proper position while sitting as when standing. 
The buttonholes must be neat, and the buttons sewed on 
good and strong with neck. 

The overcoat should be easy, not clumsy, and of 
fashionable length, sleeves to cover the under coat, and to 
fit close around the neck (sleeves of a rain coat may be 
longer than those of an ordinary overcoat), and must be 
the same length at front and back at bottom. 

A vest should fit easy to allow the body to slip up and 
down, whether sitting or stooping, more especially the 
former. 

A great many, people make the mistake by having their 
vests made snug. One will never get a good fitting vest 
in this way. A vest should come up close around the col- 
lar, and high enough , so that it will not crawl under the 
linen collar, this may be avoided by having a good tailor 
make one's clothes.) 

Trousers should be the proper length, and of ample 
size over the hips, knee, and to fall gracefully over the 
shoe at the bottom, (somic wear them very short with cuff 
or French bottoms, this is a style for college towns, and is 
not universal.) The waist should be the proper height 
and size around, (for trousers worn without suspenders, 
the waist must fit closer and cut shorter waisted). Stout 
men do not want their trousers very long waisted 
and up under their arms, therefore great care 
must be taken when selecting, cutting and making 
stout mens' trousers. When trying on a pair 
of trousers, or in fact anji garment, stand before the mirror 
in one's natural position, do not twist and turn, and cause 
wrinkles to form all over the garment, and when 
looking at the trousers, look at them in the mirror; do 
not look down upon them as many do, and often com- 
demn a good fitting pair of trousers, because by stooping 
and looking down, wrinkles appear that when standing 
natural, hang sm.ooth and straight. 

LESSON VIII. 

FOLDING CLOTHES. 
How to fold coats, vests, trousers, ladies' jackets, 
coats and skirts. How to place each garment in boxes 

4t 



for storing, delivering, shipping, the marking names and 
addresses on same. 

How to fold all kinds of coats, for delivery, traveling, 
storing, or shipping. Turn sleeves back to the collar, so 
th^t the folds come at the bend of the elbow, now turn 
the lapels and fronts back over the folded sleeves, then fold 
the skirts over and up level with the collar, so that the 
crease will fold about the center of the garment, then 
double one-half over the other so that the folds come in 
the center back seam. 

To fold vests: Place two foreparts together right 
side out, having the edges and side seams even and on top 
of each other, then fold back over fronts of vest so that 
back seam lays perpendicular with the front edge, 
straighten wrinkles out of shoulder. Then fold neck, or 
collar down level with the bottom, so that the crease will 
fold about the center of the garment, or bottom of arm 
hole. 

To fold trousers: Place two top suspender buttons 
together and front creases at bottoms even and on top of 
each other up and down the leg, lay smooth on the table, 
then fold backs over on fronts to meet front creases and 
taper to nothing, to about six inches above the knee, then 
fold legs, bringing the bottoms up level with the top of 
trousers, so that bend will come about the knee or half 
the entire legength of trousers. Then place in box for 
delivery. If, however, trousers are to be placed in a 
paper package for delivery, or to be folded small 
for packing, the following is an easy method, when backs 
are folded over to meet the front creases, and legs are lying 
smooth on the table, divide the entire length of the trous- 
ers in three parts making two folds, one three inches be- 
low the seat line or fork, the other about fifteen inches 
from the bottom, place in paper to deliver. 

When a suit is to be placed in a box for delivery, lay 
trousers in first, (folded as first explained), the vest next 
and the coat last, place cover on box, and wrap with heavy 
cord to hold top and bottom together, also for convenience 
when [carrying. 

Ladies' jackets and coats are folded the same as men's, 
either short or long. 

Ladies' skirts are folded in this manner, if plain, take 
front of waist band in the right hand, and with the left 

42 



find center front of skirt at bottom, lay on table and fold 
front over to meet the center back seam of skirt, then 
fold double and place in box or package, for delivery. 
When skirt is plaited see that the plaits lay in the proper 
creases, and fold as explained above, being careful not to 
make too small a package so as not to crush. 

The firm name should be printed on the cover of the 
box together with these words, "Please unpack and place 
on hangers as soon as received." This prevents clohtes 
from wrinkling badly. The customer's name and address 
should be written plainly in the space left for that purpose 
on the cover of the box. 

When sending a package by express or other carry- 
ing companies, it is best to mark the value of the contents 
of the package on the cover. 

LESSON IX. 

TESTING WOOLEN CLOTH AND SILK. 

Testing woolen cloth and silk: The great value of 
wool as a fibre, lies in the fact that it is strong, elastic, 
soft and very susceptible to dye stuffs, and being woven, 
furnishes a great number of air spaces, thereby rendering 
clothing made from it very warm and light. 

Wool may be dissolved completely by a warm solu- 
tion of Icaustic soda. 

Cloth may, be tested by unravelling a corner of a 
piece of cloth, lighting it with a match. If the flame runs 
along, and goes out, leaving a brown ash, and is smooth 
when rubbed between the thumb and finger, it contains 
cotton. If it burns and curls up into a ball at the end, 
and goes out, and the ashes black like charcoal, and is 
gritty when rubbed between the thumb and finger, it is 
a pretty sure indication, that it is all wool. 

The strength of a piece of cloth, may be tested by a 
thread removed from the goods, by holding one end with 
the right hand, and the other with the left. Pull, and if 
it breaks off short, it is not a strong piece of goods, and 
would not wear well ; but if it pulls out long and stringy, 
and upon examination- one finds the fiber from one to two 
inches long, this may be considered a good piece of goods, 
and would wear well. 

' Silk may be tested by unravelling an end, and burn- 
ing the threads. If the ash is brown and is smooth when 

43 



rubbed between the thumb and finger, this would not be 
^(considered pure dye silk. If, however, when lighted, it 
curls up into a ball at the end, and goes out, and the ash 
black and v/hen rubbed between the thumb and finger, 
and is gritty like charcoal, one may feel sure that it is 
pure dye stuff and will give excellent wear and will not 
crack. 

LESSON X. 

PRICE LIST FOR CLEANING AND PRESSING. 
REPAIRING AND RELINING EXTRA. 

Price list for cleaning and pressing the following gar- 
ments. Repairing and relining extra: 

Business Suits, Tuxedos Suits, Dress Suits, Overcoats, 
Ladies' Coats and Jackets, $i.oo and upwards. 

Single Vests and Trousers, 25c. each and upward. 

Ladies' Skirts, 75 cents and upward. 

Coats, all kinds, steam or dry cleaned, $1.00 extra. 

Ladies' Coats, Jackets and Skirts, steam or dry cleaned 
$1.00 extra. 

Vests and Trousers, 50 cents extra. 

Overcoats, all kinds, steam or dry cleaned, $1.00 to $2.00 

extra. 
Relining Coats, $3.00 and upward; Vests, $1.25 and up- 
ward. 
New Waist Band Lining for Truosers, 75c. and upward. 
Nev/ Velvet Collars, $1.50 and upward. 
Single Velvet Collars to buy, cost from 50 cents upward. 
New Silk Facings, $3.00 and upward per yard. 
Body Lining costs from 50 cents upward per yard. 

Sateen Sleeve and Vest Lining costs from 25 cents upward 
per yard. 

Silk and Satin Linings cost from $2.00 and upward per yard. 

Velvet by the yard costs from $3.00 upward. 

Workmen are usually paid from 20 cents to 30 cents 
per hour. Customers are usually charged 50 cents per 
liour for time required to do the work. All work done 
must be figured by the time required to do the work. 

44 



LESSON XI. 

HOW TO DRESS AND WHAT TO WEAR. 
How to dress well. The first thought to consider in 
supplying our wardrobe, is the material. Let it be of 
good quality. Cheap stuff is never good unless it is good 
quality at a low price. 

One good suit of [clothes, or dress, gives better satis- 
faction (in lasting qualities, appearance and general make- 
up) than two suits at the same price. 

A well selected piece of goods, tailored by a reliable 
tailor, always looks well, and may be kept repaired, clean- 
ed and pressed into shape occasionally, a fact that few men 
properly understand. While the low priced suit never 
has the look of that of a well fitted tailored suit, and can- 
not be kept looking as neat. 

Made to order garments are always fitted and made 
better (if by a reliable maker). In this way, one has the 
privilege of trying on and be fitted ; then when a perfect 
pattern has been made for you, your future garments may 
be made from that pattern (changing the style of course, 
but keeping the fitting points the same as the pattern.) 

Men and women have their individual pecularities, 
su|ch as one shoulder low, or one may be sloping should- 
ered, another square, erect and stooping, etc. All these dif- 
ferent variations must be taken into consideration when 
making custom made garments (or garments made to one's 
individual measurements), and all well dressed men and 
women should have their garments made to order. They 
are more easily cleaned, pressed and repaired, for their 
building and make up has been studied and put together 
by skilled mechanics. 

Men of limited capital who do not wish to spend much 
money on dress, should v/ear dark materials for suitings. 
Dark morning suits may be worn on many occasions 
when a light suit would be bad taste. Fashion should be 
followed, but avoid extremes. The v/rinkles and bags 
at the knees should be pressed out frequently. Close 
woven cloth keeps its shape in garments better. The vest 
should always be buttoned. Remove buttons on all gar- 
ments as soon as they shov/ sign of wearing, and replace 
with new. 

Skirted coats and vests should be made to fit closebv 
around the waist, and loose over the chest to £rive the 



wearer that athletic appearance. This tends to make the 
wearer stand straighten 

On the other hand, if a )coat or vest is tight over the 
chest, it tends to make the wearer stoop. The carriage of 
men who do not wear suspenders, is generally better than 
those who wear them. 

When a single breasted coat or vest is too tight across 
the chest, in many cases it is beyond remedy, as the tailor 
cannot add anything to the front after the garment is 
completed. 

Double breasted coats and vests, however, are differ- 
ent, on these; the buttons may be moved a trifle toward the 
front edge, thereby giving more breathing room over the 
chest, which is very much needed, and adds to the appear- 
ance of the garment. 

Single breasted sack overcoats, with fly front, are 
most desirable from every point of view. The man of 
taste and refinement always select dark, quiet colors for 
his overjcoats. 

Men of taste who carry canes, select those that are 
strong, plain, light and small. Large canes are in very 
bad taste for young men. 

A white necktie should never be worn except with a 
full dress suit, save by clergymen, and a few elderly men 
who never wear any other color. 

A high silk hat should not be worn with a sack suit. 
A low hat should not be worn with a double breasted frock 
or Prince Albert. 

Straw hats should not be worn, only with light sum- 
mer suits. Dark suits are preferred on Sundays, especi- 
ally in town, and light suits should never be worn to church 
anywhere. 

Double breasted frock coats should be made of bla^k 
or grey materials. 

At small informal gatherings, most men consider 
themselves sufificiently dressed when they wear black frock 
coats and dark trousers. It is not necessary for men to 
vvear dress suits vvdiere ladies are required to be in full 
dress. At public entertainments, restaurants and cafes, 
for example, where the ladies wear their bonnets, the man 
who wears a black frock coat, dark trousers, and light kid 

46 



gloves, is better dressed; because more appropirately, than 
he, who wears a full dress suit. 

'Tis true, the practice of wearing su'ch a suit occasions 
additional expense, as otherwise a business suit, or walk- 
ing suit, and a dress suit may be made to serve all occas- 
ions. 

When at home, every man goes in for comfort, how- 
ever it will be well to remember that it is not polite 
to appear at the table, whether they are strangers or not, 
or will show himself to any one with whom he is not on 
a familiar footing, in his shirt sleeves. 

A gentleman for an evening visit, should always be in 
evening dress. Dress coat, vest and trousers, white linen 
and white cravat (a black cravat is permissable, but not in 
full dress.) 

For a dinner party, ball or opera, a man must wear a 
white cravat. Watch fob is very fashionable. 

On Sunday afternoons and evening at home, gentle- 
men are permitted to wear frock coats, and to regard the 
day as an "off' one, unless invited to a grand dinner, then 
you must wear the dress suit. 

Men are always ungloved, except when riding or 
driving. 

Colored shitrs and flannel shirts are worn in the morn- 
ing, often until the dinner hour in the summer, and it is 
proper to go to an informal breakfast in the informal dress 
of the tennis ground. 

For a formal luncheon, a man must dress himself in 
black frock coat, a colored necktie, and grey or drab stripe 
trousers, and white shirt. 

For lawn tennis, — flannel shirts, rough coats, knicker- 
bockers, long grey, woolen stockings, and string shoes. 

Simplicity, neatness, and fitness mark the gentleman. 

Good clothes, manners, breeding, and education, ad- 
mit one to the better circles of society. It is not sufficient 
to do as others do, but we must dress as they do when we 
go out in the world. 

He is best dressed, whose dress attracts least atten- 
tion, and in order to attract attention, one's dress must be 
seasonable, appropriate, and conform to the prevailing 
fashion, without going to extreme, and to appear comfort- 
able. 

47 



Evening Dress: — For all formal events after six o'clock, 
balls, formal dinners, opera and theater, receptions 
and weddings. 

Overcoat — Chesterfield, Inverness, or Skirted. 

Coat — Evening dress coat. 

Waistcoat — White or black, single or double breasted. 
Ribbed silk, or flow^ered patterns of satin and silk. 

Trousers — To match coat, outside seam trimmed with 
silk braid, fitting a trifle closer over the hips than for 
ordinary wear, medium width knees and bottoms. 

Shirts and Cuffs — Plain white, ruffled or plaited bosoms, 
corded stripes, attached cuffs, domestic finish. 

Collars — Standing, Poke or lap front. 

Neckwear — White corded stripe or lawn, string with 
broad round ends. 

Gloves — White or Pearl, Grey glace, one button, self- 
stitched. 

Jewelry — Plain or Moonstone studs, and links. 

Hat — Silk, cloth band or opera for theater. 

Shoes — Varnished calfskin or patent leather botton tops 
or patent leather ties for balls. 

Style — Peaked broad lapels, rolling to waist with two 
buttons on each side, natural shoulders, chesty effect. 

Material — Undressed worsted, English twill or shadow 
stripe, in black or dark blue. 

Informal: — Evening dress, for all informal occasions, club, 

stag, and at home dinners, theaters and informal 

dinners. 
Coat — Evening jacket. Tuxedo. 
Waist coat — To match coat, dove grey; black corded 

silk for winter, white for summer, single or double 

breasted, opening cut "V" shaped. 

Trousers — To match coat. 

Shirts — Plaited, or m.ay be of soft or negligee style. At- 
tached cuffs, domestic finish. 

Collars — High band, fold or wing. 

Neckwear — String, fancy figured, black or grey ground 
with black figures, or to match material in waist coat, 
knot drawn tight, and wide ends. 

48 



Gloves — Grevj Suede, or tan. 

Jewelry — To match buttons of v^^aist coat, dull chased 
g^old stud, links, watch fob and seal. 

Hat — Soft or derby. 

Shoes — Patent or enamel leather, button tops, or ties.. 

St^de — Chesty effect, shoudders trifle wider than natural, 

shawl collar or peaked lapels rolling low and fronts 

well cut away below bottom button. 

Material — Plain or striped unfinished worsted, black, 
dark, blue or Oxford. 

Informal Day Dress: — For ordinary occasions, before six 
o'clock and Sundays. 

Overcoat — Chesterfield. 

Coat — Morning or Cutaway. 

Waist coat — To match coat, single or double breasted, 
or quiet pattern of fancy vestings. 

Trousers — Dark narrow grey or light stripe worsted or 
cassimere. 

Shirts and Cuffs— Plain white, attached cufifs. 
Collar — Poke lap front or wing. 

Neckwear — Ascot, once over or four-in-hand in somber 
effects. 

Gloves — Tan or grey. 

Jewelry — Gold links and studs, scarfpin, with watch 
guard. 

Hat— High silk. 

Shoes— Varnished calfskin, patent leather, button tops 
and light colored spats. 

Style — Chest}^, effect, oval lapels, with concave edge, 
shoulders trifle wider than natural, and wadding on 
extreme points, to give square effect; roll low. 

Material — Unfinished worsted, diagonal or plain Vicuna. 

Day Dress: — For all occasions, before six o'clock; after- 
noon calls, church, day weddings, receptions, and 
matinees. 

Overcoat — Chesterfield. 

Coat — Morning frock, for informal, double breasted 
frock or Prince Albert for formal occasions. 

49 



Waist Coat — Double or single breasted, to match the 
coat, or quiet fancy vesting, avoiding extremes. 

Trousers — Dark narrow stripe worsted, moderately 
close fitting with slight hip fullness. 

Shirt and Cufifs — Plain white, round or square cornered, 
attached cuffs. 

Collar — Poke, lap front or wing. 

Neckwear — Ascot, black or white effect, once over, 
white or Pearl. 

Gloves — Brown, light tan, self-figured, closed with one 
button. 

Jewrley — Gold links, and studs, gold watch guard, and 
scarfpin. 

Hat — High silk, cloth band. 

Shoes — Varnished calfskin, or patent leather,button top 
with light colored spats. 

Style — Chesty effect, oval lapels, with small rounded 
corners, roll low, shoulders trifle wider than natural, 
raising extreme points with wadding. 

Material — Unfinished worsted, or diagonal, in black or 

Oxford. 
Morning and Business Dress: — For general wear during 

business hours. 
Overcoat — Chesterfield, Newmarket, Covert or top coat. 
Coat — Sack or morning. 
Waist Coat — Single breasted, with or without a collar, 

to match coat or fancy vesting. 
Trousers — To match coat, or striped worsted or cassi- 

mere with morning coat. 
Shirts and Cuffs — AVhite or colored shirt, stiff or soft 

bosom, attached cuffs. 

Collars — Wing or high band turndown. 

Neckwear Once over, Ascot, four-in-hand or Imperial. 

Gloves — Tan or grey. 

Jewelry — Gold links and studs, scarfpin and watch guard. 

Hats — Derby or Alpine with sacks, high silk or derby 
with morning coat. 

Shoes — Calfskin, high or low cut. 

Style — Single or double breasted for sacks, chesty ath- 

50 



letic effect, two or three buttons, morning or English 
walking coat with flaps on side. 
Material — Fancy suitings for sacks. Plain or fancy 
weave for morning coats. Blue, brown or grey mix- 
tures for sacks ; grey or Oxford for morning dress. 
Seashore and Lounging Dress: — For summer wear only. 
Coat — Norfolk or lounge coat. 
Belt — Pig or monkey skin. 

Trousers — To match coat or fancy stripe flannel. 
Shirts— Colored negHgee, cuffs attached, Madras or 

Oxford. 
Collar — Fold collar. 

Neckwear — Four-in-hand, or soft silk tie. 
Jewelry — Scarfpin, gold links, stud buttons. 
Hats — Straw, Alpine or golf cap. 
Shoes — Low shoes of calfskin. 
Style — Norfolk coat, skeleton lined, single or double 

breasted sack. 
Material — Tropical worsted or Tweed, flannel Shetland 
or homespun. Brown, grey and mixtures. 
Outing Dress: — For golf and other sports : 

Overcoats — Peajacket, short Covert or top coat. 

Coat — Norfolk jacket or lounge coat. 

Waist Coat — Double breasted, with or without collar, 

to match coat, flannel or fancy knit. 
Trousers — Knickerbockers, for fall and winter, striped 
flannel, Tweed or homespun matching coat for spring 
and summer. 
Shirts — Colored negligee, cuffs attached, Madras or Ox- 
ford sweater. 
Collar — Soft fold, self-collar or stock. 
Neckwear — Tie or stock. 

Gloves — Tan or chamois,wool knit, heavy golfing gloves. 
Jewelry — Scarfpin, links, with watch guard. 
Hat — Soft felt or cap. 
Shoes — Calf or russet. 

Stjde— Norfolk with box plaits, yoke and belt or plain 
sack, chesty effect. 

SI 



Material — Tweeds, flannel, or homespun, brown, grey 
and mixtures. 

Driving or Motoring Dress : 

Overcoat — Burberry of wax waterproof cloth, or duster 
of linen or rubber silk. 

Coat — Norfolk or double breasted sack. 

Waist Coat — Matching coat, flannel or fancy knit. 

Trousers — Knickerbockers or trousers of flannel, Tweed 
or homespun, matching coat; breeches and leggings 
for motoring. 

Shirts — Fancy flannel. Cheviot or Madras sweater, soft. 

Collar — Soft fold self-collar or stock. 

Neckwear — Stock or tie. 

Gloves — Tan or chamois, soft cape gauntlets, tan or 
black for the motor car. 

JcAvelry — Links, scarfpin and watch guard. 

Hat — Soft felt or cap, French chauffeur cap with leather 
visor for motoring'. 

Shoes — Calfskin or russet with leggins for automobiling. 

Style — Semi-Norfolk jacket of wax (waterproof) cloth. 

Material — Tweed, flannel or homespun, Oxford, grey 
or tan. 

Womens' Dress: 

Formal dress, for all occasions after six o'clock — wed- 
dings, receptions, formal dinners, theater and balls, high 
neck, long skirt, hat, coat, and gloves, and evening slippers. 

For morning and afternoon wear, the tailor made suit 
with short skirt ; for afternoon, the long skirt, hat, high 
dress walking boot, patent leather, lace or button with 
cloth tops. 

For outing vvear, the coat sweater for skating, golfing, 
and hocky. 

For misses' and childrens' dresses made of the same 
material, short skirts; the coats may cover the dress, or 
may be three-quarters or seven-eighths long, may be single 
or double breasted, to button high around the neck or 
roll low. 

For house wear, the plain tailored shirt waist suit in be- 
coming colors are good form. 

For school and street vvear, the short skirt, coat three- 



quarters or seven-eighths long and made of rough material 
is the more stylish, and is made in a variety of styles. 

Gloves for evening wear, Suede, Mousquetaire, elbow 
and above; length arranging in buttons from eight to 
twenty-four. In tan, mode, slate, pearl, lavender, yellow, 
black, and white. 

Walking gloves, Havana, Smyrna, tan, oak and ma- 
hogany, with two or three buttons, clasps. 

Auto gauntlets, buck and cape skin gauntlets in slate, 
oak and black. 

For automobiling, double and single breasted long 
loose coats, made in a variety of styles, water and dust 
proof, plain or fancy trimmed, with wind cuffs inside of 
sleeves, with velvet collars and cuffs. 

Material used are rubber faced goods, Mohairs, Cham- 
brays, Satins, Oxfords and Tan plaids, changeable silks 
and Crepe de Chines. 

When selecting goods for dresses or jackets, bear in 
mind that stripes lengthen, plaids, checks and light ma- 
terials broaden, and enlarge the persons appearance. 

Boys' and youths* clothing from four to eighteen. 
The materials used for boys' suits, include all the staple 
cloths, such as infinished worsteds in stripes and plaids, 
tweeds, dark and blue serge, plain cheviots, and Scotch 
mixtures, homespun and corduroy. 

The sailor suit is more suitable for the younger boy, 
and may be made of various materials, such as white, blue, 
and brown serge or cheviot, and trimmed with braid in 
a variety of styles, as occasion require and surroundings 
permit. 

The most favorite style for the boy who has outgrown 
the sailor suit, is the Norfolk coat, single or double breast- 
ed, with double or single box plaits, made with or without 
straight or pointed yoke. 

The next in popularity, comes the double or single 
breasted sack coat; with this and the above, bloomers may 
be worn, finished at the knee with a buckled band. 

The straight trousers are much v/orn and preferred by 
some boys, and are considered more dressy when worn 
with a plaited skirt bosom with attached cuffs, pointed 
Eaton collar, and a narrow four-in-hand scarf and patent 
or dull leather shoes. 



5^ 



For every; day wear, the plain negligee shirt with yoke 
back and attached cuffs are worn. With this style shirt, 
the younger boys from eight to twelve, wear the stiff linen 
or soft white pique, Eaton collar with round or square 
corners, or a turn down collar of which the latter is most 
popular. 

The Windsor bow or the narrow four-in-hand scarf 
may be worn with the Eaton collar. 

For outing, a soft flannel negligee style made perfectly 
plain, with straight attached or the new turn back cuffs, a 
soft turn down collar attached to the shirt is preferred by 
some, while others wear the separate linen collar, and have 
the neck band finished plain. This style of white turn- 
down collar may be worn on all occasions until the age 
of eighteen, at which time, he may wear almost any style 
on the maturer man, providing his size will permit. 

The plaited shirt bosom is the more dressy style, and 
mav be of white or light colors, with stripes and figures or 
in solid colors. Young boys do not wear attached cuffs 
until they are twelve years old, and only then if full grown. 

For small parties, dancing classes or weddings, a boy 
under sixteen may wxar a dark blue serge double breasted 
sack suit or the Norfolk style with bloomers or straight 
trousers. 

A plain white or finely striped white plaited shirt with 
turn-over collar and dark narrow four-in-hand scarf is in 
good taste with dull leather or patent leather Oxfords. 

Boys' overgarments: — For boys up to twelve, wear 
the straight double breasted box overcoat; for the older 
boy, they may be semi-fitting and slightly tapering at the 
waist, and medium length; storm coats are verv long and 
much box, the materials include fancy Tweeds, Diagonals, 
Cheviots, Beaver and Kerseys. 

At the age of fifteen or sixteen, a boy will require a 
more distinctive type of evening dress, and for these, the 
Tuxedo or Dinner Coat is most recommended. The 
Tuxedo or Dinner Suit may be made of unfinished v;orsted, 
diagonal, twills, in black or dark blue, with pointed lapels 
or shawn collar , silk or satin faced to the edge, and finish- 
ed with one button. 

A l)lack or grey vest may be worn v/ith black tie, but 
if the occasion be very formal, a white vest and white tie 
Hjay be substituted, v.^ith patent leather pumps. 

54 



After a boy has reached the age of eighteen or nine- 
teen, he may adopt the styles of men in scarfs, waist coats, 
envening clothes, gloves, etc. 

LESSON XII. 

BUSINESS ETIQUETTE. 

Business etiquette. Your duty to your customer re- 
quires you to treat them with respect, to do the work to 
the best of your ability, to give them the best work of your 
head and hands, and to treat your customers with polite- 
ness to show a disposition to please and be a lady or gentle- 
man at all times. 

Be independent, but not impertinent. 

Do your best to please your customers. Never 
promise to have garments finished at a given time unless 
you intend to have them finished at the time promised, 
and never disappoint a customer if it can possibly be 
avoided. 

Never misrepresent. A reputation for integerity is 
of almost or quite as much value in your business as a 
reputation for skill and taste. 

Your most valuable customers are refined ladies and 
gentlemen ; you will do well therefore to bear in mind that 
gentlemen love gentlemen. 

Do not breathe in a customer's face. 

Dress well, and let your linen be clean ; your garments 
kept well cleaned, pressed and repaired. 

Your appearance is a part of your capital in the way 
of getting business. 

When you have garments that have been ready for 
customers one month, notify them, saying that you v/ill 
hold them for thirty days longer. Say that in the mean- 
tim.e you wish they v/ould call for them. 

Everything for the cleaning, repairing and pressing 
of clothes may be had at this office. Send samples or ex- 
planation of what is required and price list will be for- 
v/arded to any address. These goods are sold at the low- 
est possible margin of profit for handling same, and only 
to those of our students who have bought the method. 

The follovving is a partial list of what may be had : 

Press-jacks, tables, irons, sponge cloths prepared, 
brushes, scissors, sewing machines, mirrors, desks, chairs, 

55 



coat, vest, trouser, jacket, and skirt hangers, racks to hang 
clothes on, chalk, needles, thimbles, tape measures, bast- 
ing cotton, linen thread, silk thread, buttonhole twist, but- 
tons for coats, vests and trousers to match cloth. Sleeve 
linings for undercoats, vests, overcoats, waist band lining 
for trousers, for ladies' jackets and coats. All kinds of 
silk and satins for body linings, heavy silk facings, for 
Tuxedos, Prince Alberts, and dress coats; velvet collars, 
any size, silesias, sateens, rubber tissue, buckles, haircloth, 
canvas, beeswax, cleaning fluids, moth preventative, and 
anything used by the cleaner and presser. 



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LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



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